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Thread: Going to get a new toy

  1. #11
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    Well I managed to remove leaking plug but it turns out that the hole is threaded, I tried to install a BSP 3/4” plug in the hole but it won’t go in. I believe it might be 1” BSF but I am not sure, does anyone have any knowledge regarding the thread my only other option would be to drill the hole to 26 mm and install a welch plug. The front one is a 26 mm Welch plug so I don’t know if someone in the past made a repair using a bolt or if that is original.image.jpgimage.jpg

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gippslander View Post
    Well I managed to remove leaking plug but it turns out that the hole is threaded, I tried to install a BSP 3/4” plug in the hole but it won’t go in. I believe it might be 1” BSF but I am not sure, does anyone have any knowledge regarding the thread my only other option would be to drill the hole to 26 mm and install a welsh plug. The front one is a 26 mm welsh plug so I don’t know if someone in the past made a repair using a bolt or if that is original.image.jpgimage.jpg
    From discussions on here in the past I believe it's a BS Conduit thread, the plugs are available.
    Tapped holes in each the end of the 2 litre block

    Oh and it's a Welch plug History of the Welch Plug probably 1" rather than 26mm.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  3. #13
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    Sep 2012
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    Westlake ,brisbane
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    Yes Conduit Thread. I have had three S1 80" LR's all had plumbing plugs fitted when I bought them. My guess is they taped a new thread to suit the plugs.IMAG0997.jpg IMAG0995.jpg IMAG0996.jpg

  4. #14
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    Look after the remaining paint.

    Quote Originally Posted by Gippslander View Post
    The old girl had a water leak at the rear of the block which I was concerned about so I pulled exhaust manifold off today and while I was there checked exhaust valve clearance. I found two tight one so adjusted them, the internals look a bit carboned up and sludgy in camshaft / valve area but considering the age looks reasonable. The water leak is from a welsh plug at the rear of the block so ordered two new ones as there is one at the front of the block may as well change both now while I can. I have attached a couple of photos the first is of the corroded welsh plug.
    Don't forget to put an old towell or similar on top of your front wing (mudguard ) tops to save what's left of your paint when working uner the bonnet. As others have said, there's plenty of glossy repainted ones around, so look after whats's left of the original paint. Better to spend your $$$ on brakes and steering than paint.
    Mike.
    5380

  5. #15
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    I'd also point out that for these F-head engines, you may find it helps to remove the LH mudguard to work on the valve gear, or, as in this case, the manifold. It is not very difficult, and makes the engine work a lot easier.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    I'd also point out that for these F-head engines, you may find it helps to remove the LH mudguard to work on the valve gear, or, as in this case, the manifold. It is not very difficult, and makes the engine work a lot easier.
    I found that there was plenty of room without removing the mudguard.

    DSCN2648 by Colin Radley, on Flickr


    With the 6-cylinder F-head it's just possible but probably easier if you remove the mudguard.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

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