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Gentlemen,
Many thanks for all the help, really is appreciated.
I can fit either a 2 or a 3 hole master cylinder, as the additional hole was already drilled before we blasted and paint the chassis.
So, apart from the smaller 3/8" UNF outlet port on later Master cylinders, are there any other differences that would make it unwise to use a later Master Cylinder?
Stoke volume appears the same and seals are identical.
regards
jeff
Push rod is different, that's why Dingocroft supply as a kit so that it fits without further modification.Quote:
Originally Posted by jedwards
I'd have to dig out an Indian 3-bolt and a Series II master cylinder to compare.
Colin
From memory the push rod to the pedal is different. From memory I just swapped the old push rod on to the new 2 bolt master cylinder.Quote:
Originally Posted by jedwards
Chris
Hello all
Had the dickens of a problem with my original 80" master cylinder. Initially I did the overhaul, hone, new seals etc. Wouldn't bleed! Then wouldn't power bleed. (the man hours!)Took it to local brake "Specialist". Yep! no probs, is this and that (to my jaundiced eye). Anyway $200 or so later installed and still wouldn't bleed properly (more man hours). Only then I found young Alex had a reasonably priced full replacement on his S1 site. Worked a treat straight up!
Recommend: "Don't bugger around, go talk to Alex @ http://seriesoneshop.com/". New 3 bolt $350, currently................and they work!
Cheers
Rick F
That looks remarkably like the one I got from India.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Fischer
I'll dig it out at the weekend & take a photo.
I purchased one off Ebay from a seller in Germany some years back, supposedly for a Minerva. Cost was $180 inc freight.
Then through a colleague I sourced one from India for US$26 plus freight.
Identical units, identical packaging and both had the same problem.
The inlet & outlet ports are drilled & tapped right through instead of accepting tube flares. Means you have to source adapters to get the tubes to fit.
Reasonably well made and has the smaller port size.
Colin
HI Colin,
I can always use the old pushrod, but would you be able/prepared to measure the size of the supply and outlet ports on each.
My original Master for which my brake system is set up for used a larger banjo setup, the size of which I am not 100% sure about. The replacement I bought has 3/8"x 24 UNF supply and a 7/16"x 20 outlet, but the outlet is too small, so I assume it must be 1/2"
regards
Jeff
Jeff,Quote:
Originally Posted by jedwards
I think you have those sizes mixed up. The inlet is the larger size of 7/16" UNF
The Indian master cylinders have the same port sizes as later Series I's & the Series II. Inlet 7/16"UNF and outlet 3/8"UNF.
As mentioned earlier, Dingocroft show an adaptor in the outlet of a Series II master cylinder. Worth contacting them to see if you can buy just the adaptor.
A decent local brake company might be able to help, I found someone who kept a huge range of adaptors but they weren't cheap.
Colin
Have you thought about resleeving your master cylinder there are lots of workshops who carry this work out I have listed two companies that can do it and the sleeves are stainless so last longer.
gippy
Power Brakes SA Pty Ltd / Restored hydraulic brake and clutch cylinders
South Glenelg Brake & Auto Service >> Brake Resleeving
If you look at how this master cylinder works it's arse about.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gippslander
The piston wears not the bore. Seal is static in the bore and the piston moves through it.
Mine has the original master cylinder re-sealed (years ago) and still works OK, I messed around trying to get a replacement because if you have a spare the original is guaranteed not to fail !
Colin
Sorry Colin I haven’t looked inside a master cylinder just thought it was standard type but should have known better because it’s a Land Rover.
Gipp[bigwhistle]