Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 26

Thread: Brake Master Cylinder Help

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    299
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Gentlemen,
    Many thanks for all the help, really is appreciated.
    I can fit either a 2 or a 3 hole master cylinder, as the additional hole was already drilled before we blasted and paint the chassis.

    So, apart from the smaller 3/8" UNF outlet port on later Master cylinders, are there any other differences that would make it unwise to use a later Master Cylinder?
    Stoke volume appears the same and seals are identical.
    regards
    jeff

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren South
    Posts
    6,314
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by jedwards View Post
    Gentlemen,
    Many thanks for all the help, really is appreciated.
    I can fit either a 2 or a 3 hole master cylinder, as the additional hole was already drilled before we blasted and paint the chassis.

    So, apart from the smaller 3/8" UNF outlet port on later Master cylinders, are there any other differences that would make it unwise to use a later Master Cylinder?
    Stoke volume appears the same and seals are identical.
    regards
    jeff
    Push rod is different, that's why Dingocroft supply as a kit so that it fits without further modification.
    I'd have to dig out an Indian 3-bolt and a Series II master cylinder to compare.


    Colin
    Last edited by gromit; 17th November 2021 at 05:48 PM.
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  3. #13
    cjc_td5's Avatar
    cjc_td5 is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Bunbury, WA
    Posts
    2,436
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by jedwards View Post
    Gentlemen,
    Many thanks for all the help, really is appreciated.
    I can fit either a 2 or a 3 hole master cylinder, as the additional hole was already drilled before we blasted and paint the chassis.

    So, apart from the smaller 3/8" UNF outlet port on later Master cylinders, are there any other differences that would make it unwise to use a later Master Cylinder?
    Stoke volume appears the same and seals are identical.
    regards
    jeff
    From memory the push rod to the pedal is different. From memory I just swapped the old push rod on to the new 2 bolt master cylinder.
    Chris
    Chris


    2014 D4 TDV6
    1954 86"
    1963 2A Forward Control (getting the full treatment, Isuzu 4JH1, MYY5T, LT230, Toyota Axles, extended cab ++)
    1980 Stage 1 v8 (gone)

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Tewantin (NOOSA area)
    Posts
    636
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hello all

    Had the dickens of a problem with my original 80" master cylinder. Initially I did the overhaul, hone, new seals etc. Wouldn't bleed! Then wouldn't power bleed. (the man hours!)Took it to local brake "Specialist". Yep! no probs, is this and that (to my jaundiced eye). Anyway $200 or so later installed and still wouldn't bleed properly (more man hours). Only then I found young Alex had a reasonably priced full replacement on his S1 site. Worked a treat straight up!

    Recommend: "Don't bugger around, go talk to Alex @ http://seriesoneshop.com/". New 3 bolt $350, currently................and they work!

    Cheers

    Rick F

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren South
    Posts
    6,314
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Fischer View Post
    Hello all

    Had the dickens of a problem with my original 80" master cylinder. Initially I did the overhaul, hone, new seals etc. Wouldn't bleed! Then wouldn't power bleed. (the man hours!)Took it to local brake "Specialist". Yep! no probs, is this and that (to my jaundiced eye). Anyway $200 or so later installed and still wouldn't bleed properly (more man hours). Only then I found young Alex had a reasonably priced full replacement on his S1 site. Worked a treat straight up!

    Recommend: "Don't bugger around, go talk to Alex @ http://seriesoneshop.com/". New 3 bolt $350, currently................and they work!

    Cheers

    Rick F
    That looks remarkably like the one I got from India.
    I'll dig it out at the weekend & take a photo.

    I purchased one off Ebay from a seller in Germany some years back, supposedly for a Minerva. Cost was $180 inc freight.
    Then through a colleague I sourced one from India for US$26 plus freight.

    Identical units, identical packaging and both had the same problem.

    The inlet & outlet ports are drilled & tapped right through instead of accepting tube flares. Means you have to source adapters to get the tubes to fit.

    Reasonably well made and has the smaller port size.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    299
    Total Downloaded
    0
    HI Colin,
    I can always use the old pushrod, but would you be able/prepared to measure the size of the supply and outlet ports on each.
    My original Master for which my brake system is set up for used a larger banjo setup, the size of which I am not 100% sure about. The replacement I bought has 3/8"x 24 UNF supply and a 7/16"x 20 outlet, but the outlet is too small, so I assume it must be 1/2"

    regards
    Jeff

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren South
    Posts
    6,314
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by jedwards View Post
    HI Colin,
    I can always use the old pushrod, but would you be able/prepared to measure the size of the supply and outlet ports on each.
    My original Master for which my brake system is set up for used a larger banjo setup, the size of which I am not 100% sure about. The replacement I bought has 3/8"x 24 UNF supply and a 7/16"x 20 outlet, but the outlet is too small, so I assume it must be 1/2"

    regards
    Jeff
    Jeff,
    I think you have those sizes mixed up. The inlet is the larger size of 7/16" UNF
    The Indian master cylinders have the same port sizes as later Series I's & the Series II. Inlet 7/16"UNF and outlet 3/8"UNF.

    As mentioned earlier, Dingocroft show an adaptor in the outlet of a Series II master cylinder. Worth contacting them to see if you can buy just the adaptor.

    A decent local brake company might be able to help, I found someone who kept a huge range of adaptors but they weren't cheap.



    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Mirboo North Victoria
    Posts
    429
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Have you thought about resleeving your master cylinder there are lots of workshops who carry this work out I have listed two companies that can do it and the sleeves are stainless so last longer.
    gippy
    Power Brakes SA Pty Ltd / Restored hydraulic brake and clutch cylinders



    South Glenelg Brake & Auto Service >> Brake Resleeving

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren South
    Posts
    6,314
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Gippslander View Post
    Have you thought about resleeving your master cylinder there are lots of workshops who carry this work out I have listed two companies that can do it and the sleeves are stainless so last longer.
    gippy
    Power Brakes SA Pty Ltd / Restored hydraulic brake and clutch cylinders



    South Glenelg Brake & Auto Service >> Brake Resleeving
    If you look at how this master cylinder works it's arse about.
    The piston wears not the bore. Seal is static in the bore and the piston moves through it.

    Mine has the original master cylinder re-sealed (years ago) and still works OK, I messed around trying to get a replacement because if you have a spare the original is guaranteed not to fail !


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Mirboo North Victoria
    Posts
    429
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Sorry Colin I haven’t looked inside a master cylinder just thought it was standard type but should have known better because it’s a Land Rover.
    Gipp

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!