yes I wouldn't have bothered fitting the booster either, but its there now and all new steel lines running to it so might as well stay there. It certainly stops very well.
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yes I wouldn't have bothered fitting the booster either, but its there now and all new steel lines running to it so might as well stay there. It certainly stops very well.
Not much to report today. Removed the tool box from the rear tray and installed the door tops because its raining the rest of this week. Slightly different look now.
Definitely needs a set of new seals - all of them. More rain was coming in through the windscreen rubbers than through the open door tops on the way to work this morning.
Attachment 178658
I've noticed that like me, you've got a Series 2 winch installed on a S1 109 with 2286cc engine, which makes sense, because the clutch hook up is straight forward.
Because of the reduced space on a 109 S1, between the radiator panel crossmember and the bumper, and to gain space between the grille and the bollard I moved
the bumper forward by about 1-1/2". How did you or the PO overcome that problem?
.W.
I'll have to get back to you about this. I have no experience with the capstan winches and its currently just bolted in place for aesthetics (by the PO), the bits to make it work are in a box that I haven't received yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by B.S.F.
Not sure if these photos help?
Attachment 178674Attachment 178675
With a capstan winch fitted for "appearance" you should be aware that the original winch installation should include heavy duty front springs!
I'm going through the same exercise fitting my capstan to my 1955 86" with a holden 179, I have all the bits and the drive shaft that engages to the motor has been shortened but I need to modify the brackets that are bolted to the motor for the dog clutch and also the hole in the front cross member has been filled by the angle that was welded into the modified cross member.Quote:
Originally Posted by akelly
looks good! Cheers Jason
ok so with all the weather around of course the wiper motor started playing up. Something in the gearbox wasn't right so I got it off and pulled it apart. Yuck.
Attachment 178763 Attachment 178764 Attachment 178765
Ran it through the parts washer then the ultrasonic bath for about an hour all up, with a 50% degreaser solution heated to 50ºc. Nice.
Attachment 178766 Attachment 178767
I didn't have any of the gaskets required so I designed them in Fusion 360 and printed them in TPU. Orange was already on the printer, so they're orange.
Attachment 178768
Only one problem: the phenolic gear on the pinion is stripped, so its not working still. I reassembled it all and put it back in the car so I can at least wipe the window manually.
Attachment 178771 Attachment 178769 Attachment 178770
I cannot find anywhere online that has these gears - anyone know of a supplier that carries them? Secondhand motors are ludicrous money so buying one for parts is out of the question. I have one of the cheap chinese knock offs on the way so I have something that works, but would like to repair the original one properly if its possible.
Cheers,
Adam
[edit: PS I have to make some minor changes to the gasket models so they fit better, once that's done I'll be putting them on my thingiverse page for anyone to use. Watch this space if you want them]
Been having a right old time of it with the brakes on Harvey. Won't post a bunch of pics, but it has S2A 109 axles and 11" brakes - which is great except the TLS front brakes are a NIGHTMARE to bleed. I ended up replacing the entire brake system except for the steel lines, then spent a week, no exaggeration, bleeding the brakes. In the process I ditched the knockoff brand VH44 (which was leaking air) and fixed the rear adjusters that were slipping as well. Its now got fantastic brakes, which is nice.
Today's job was to sort out the light switch, which has a bit too much play in it and you can turn it past 'on' which is no good. I had another complete switch but no key, so I ordered a new barrel and key and went about fitting them up. First off I ran the switch through the ultrasonic bath because it was disgusting. Could not find instructions anywhere how to pull it apart so here's some pics I hope help the next guy or gal...
Attachment 180350
you bend out the little half moon tabs here and the unit slides apart.
Attachment 180351
this detent ball in here is how you get the lock barrel out. You can do this with the whole thing together, in theory, but it would not release on mine, and still wont even after putting it all back with the new barrel. YMMV.
[edit]: forgot to say, its tricky to get the barrel out without a key, which is why I had to disassemble the whole thing. Once you can get to the wafers in the barrel you can press them down one at a time as you slide the lock out of the mechanism. You put the key in the lock to insert the new barrel.
Attachment 180352
this shows the detent ball on the barrel, as well as the other ball and spring that are in the main body under a brass grub screw.
Attachment 180353
Here's mine all reassembled. I gave the surround a quick dust of black paint just because.
If you take your time and keep track of where things go, take some photos or whatever, you cant really go wrong. its a very simple set up.
Off for a roadworthy cert this week then I can get on with some more upgrades.
This is very useful post. I’ve got the barrel out for replacement, however the light switch needs a bit of love but I’d been told it’s a nightmare to get back together again. I might just give it a crack now…
Cheers, Matt
Quote:
Originally Posted by akelly
ok so I've had a right old time trying to sort out the brakes on Harvey. He's got IIA 109 axles and brakes, which is great but also my god those TLS front brakes are a pain! After replacing literally every part except for the backing plates and main steel lines I still couldn't get a decent pedal that would last more than a short test drive. I'm putting this here for anyone else having trouble with this kind of thing - it was a combination of stuffed components (seized wheel cylinders mainly) but the thing that finally solved the whole problem was the brake drums are way undersized. I got them machined as part of the work but the guy clearly didn't check them. The max dia is 281mm and you can see in the pics how far out they were.
Attachment 180398
The old drums, way out of spec.
Attachment 180399
The new TRW drums.
Anyway, I managed to get two TRW drums over the counter at British Off Road and they're getting me two more on Monday, I think the others are the dreaded OEM or whatever but they'll be fine.
Looking forward to having this work behind me so I can actually just drive the thing and enjoy the nice weather with the roof off....
