I have a similar model to you , a '53 80 inch and I have replaced a few front crank seals over the years on variuos Series 1 engines. Read the work shop Manual!
Sorry to tell you that the pressed metal ring riveted to the front of the cover is the mud shield, The crank seal is on the inside, so the cover has to come off.
Don't forget the studs or bolts that come up from below through the front of the sump into the bottom face of the timing chain cover.
Bite the bullet and get the correct Whitworth /BS spanners and sockets. Metric and A/F spanners don't fit and will make the job a lot harder!
If you can find a big brass drift or punch, give all the bolt heads some good hard smacks to jar loose the corrosion that is inevitable if the bolts were not "never sieze " coated last time they were installed. I also find that if you have a rattle gun, use it to tighten the bolts a little before you try to undo them. If they are really tight try working them back and forth a little at a time until they come loose or snap off.
Lanox spray and some patience also help. Keep giving the stubborn bolt heads a whack with the brass drift along the way out if they are still tight . While you have the case off, check that the oil feed to the tensioner idler sprocket stud and the tensioner piston are not blocked or restricted. Problably a good idea to pull the harmonic balancer apart and unsieze the rubber washers and bronze bushing. Buy a quality double lip seal and pack the lips with teflon or MSO2 grease. Remove the radiator/front panel or you will damge your radiator and/or nuckles!
The bolts that srcew into cast iron are BSF thread and the bolts that screw into aluminium are Whitworth thread. Some iron water pumps also have Whitworth threads where the lower radiator inlet pipe bolts onto the water pump inlet flange.
Good luck! Have fun! 5380
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