Results 1 to 4 of 4

Thread: 80in front crank seal

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Burra NSW
    Posts
    932

    80in front crank seal

    Hi, I知 trying to change the front crank seal..does the timing case need to come off? Looks like the seal has a rivet retainer behind the pulley? If so, how does the timing cover come off? Mine wont release? Any thing I知 missing? Cheers in advance
    52 80in

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Tamworth NSW
    Posts
    85
    Quote Originally Posted by Summiitt View Post
    Hi, I知 trying to change the front crank seal..does the timing case need to come off? Looks like the seal has a rivet retainer behind the pulley? If so, how does the timing cover come off? Mine wont release? Any thing I知 missing? Cheers in advance
    52 80in
    I have a similar model to you , a '53 80 inch and I have replaced a few front crank seals over the years on variuos Series 1 engines. Read the work shop Manual!
    Sorry to tell you that the pressed metal ring riveted to the front of the cover is the mud shield, The crank seal is on the inside, so the cover has to come off.
    Don't forget the studs or bolts that come up from below through the front of the sump into the bottom face of the timing chain cover.

    Bite the bullet and get the correct Whitworth /BS spanners and sockets. Metric and A/F spanners don't fit and will make the job a lot harder!

    If you can find a big brass drift or punch, give all the bolt heads some good hard smacks to jar loose the corrosion that is inevitable if the bolts were not "never sieze " coated last time they were installed. I also find that if you have a rattle gun, use it to tighten the bolts a little before you try to undo them. If they are really tight try working them back and forth a little at a time until they come loose or snap off.

    Lanox spray and some patience also help. Keep giving the stubborn bolt heads a whack with the brass drift along the way out if they are still tight . While you have the case off, check that the oil feed to the tensioner idler sprocket stud and the tensioner piston are not blocked or restricted. Problably a good idea to pull the harmonic balancer apart and unsieze the rubber washers and bronze bushing. Buy a quality double lip seal and pack the lips with teflon or MSO2 grease. Remove the radiator/front panel or you will damge your radiator and/or nuckles!
    The bolts that srcew into cast iron are BSF thread and the bolts that screw into aluminium are Whitworth thread. Some iron water pumps also have Whitworth threads where the lower radiator inlet pipe bolts onto the water pump inlet flange.

    Good luck! Have fun! 5380

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Burra NSW
    Posts
    932
    Thanks Mate,

    Got it sorted, I left the radiator in, but pulled the fan off, quite an easy job, was just wondering about those 2 lower studs going into the sump..the good news was that the little 80in passed rego!
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Tamworth NSW
    Posts
    85
    Quote Originally Posted by Summiitt View Post
    Thanks Mate,

    Got it sorted, I left the radiator in, but pulled the fan off, quite an easy job, was just wondering about those 2 lower studs going into the sump..the good news was that the little 80in passed rego!

    Good news Summitt. I am pleased your bolts were not all rusted up and you didn't punch your radiator! Now you cah hold up impatient Mazda drivers on the highway in your 80. My 80 likes about 42 mph. It seems a bit revvy at 50mph. so I will stick to 40 ish and enjoy the scenery and freash air. 5380

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!