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Thread: Harmonic balancer removal 2L petrol on 57 SWB

  1. #1
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    Harmonic balancer removal 2L petrol on 57 SWB

    Hi everyone,

    I'm in the process of installing an Aeroparts capstan winch to a 2.0L petrol engine on my 1957 S1. I have removed the dog nut, but now need to remove the screws that hold the harmonic balancer in place. Once this is removed, I'll then be able to attached the cradle and draft shaft for the winch.

    Anyhow, does anyone know how I should removed the screws? While I can see I'll need a flat screwdriver and maybe a wrench to lever the screwdriver head, the screws are tight, and I'm trying not to strip the screw heads. Should I apply heat?

    Thanks, John

  2. #2
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    You don't remove the screws to take Harmonic Balancer off the crankshaft. Once you have removed the large centre bolt you just need a soft hammer & may be a leaver to knock the balancer off

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1950landy View Post
    You don't remove the screws to take Harmonic Balancer off the crankshaft. Once you have removed the large centre bolt you just need a soft hammer & may be a leaver to knock the balancer off
    But you have to remove the 6 screws to fit the new driving flange for the winch.
    .W.

  4. #4
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    The drive plate is held in place by the centre bolt, well at least on my 80" it is.
    balancer1.jpg You can see the screws around the outside of the drive plate & not through the drive plate. capstan12.jpg The holes in the drive plate are to locate the drive dowls in the sliding drive flange.

  5. #5
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    Thanks

    Thanks for your advice. I'll give that a go.

    I understand I'll need to install a different drive flange to the crank and then reinstall the HB. In turn this will then allow me to install the drive train for the winch. I'll take pics as I go through the process and then create a post to guide others.

    Regards, John

  6. #6
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    vibration damper flywheel

    Used a lever and urethane mallet to slide the vibration damper flywheel off - as suggested. Came off easily. Next are the screws so I can extract the drive flange. Thanks again. J

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
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    Hi,

    Having recently been down this track adapting a SII winch to an 80" I had to do a bit of internal machining.

    The screws on the harmonic balancer hold the "compression" plate for the rubber "plates". Once the front steel plate screws are removed one will need something like a 1o ton press to liberate the drive flange from the drive pulley. Rubber is old and will be hard. The compressed rubber is the actual drive medium between the pulley and and the drive flange. The pulley and the drive flange are not directly connected. From my reading back then some kits came with a replacement drive flange, perhaps new rubber plates.

    In my case after machining and adapting the 2ltr 80" flange, (and C/S to pulley retaining bolt) and reinstalling it all it slipped. I had to disassemble get appropriate thickness rubber (neoprene or like) and cut out two new rubber discs. Recall I might have done that a couple of times. When done and reinstalled with adequate compression the screws were inserted and "torqued" (to the original OEM centre pop peening marks) then again peened after confirming there was sufficient drive for water pump and generator. It did take a bit of jiggery pokery to get the rubber discs to fit and compress properly.

    Cheers

    Rick F

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