Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 11

Thread: Water in the sump

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Kiewa Valley, VIC
    Posts
    328
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Water in the sump

    Started dismantling a 2.0 spread bore yesterday. The sump needs a serious amount of work to get anywhere near the original shape, and when draining, clear water gushed out before cleanish oil. The engine has probably been sitting for decades under the bonnet and I’m guessing that the water must be from the cooling system somewhere. The head gasket and piston liners are in excellent condition and there is no sign of corrosion under the tappet cover, although surface corrosion is evident in the cavity below the head and on the crank.
    Where should I start looking for a leak?
    Also, how hard is it to drill out and replace the timing cover bolts?
    Mustlust

    1950 Series 1 80in lights behind grill
    1950 Series 1 80in rolling chassis looking for a body
    1956 Series 1 86in
    1956 Series 1 107
    1957 Series 1 88in
    1967 Mustang coupe 347 stroker
    2011 Discovery 4 3.0
    2009 110 utility 2.4tdci

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Redesdale
    Posts
    1,524
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Mustlust View Post
    Started dismantling a 2.0 spread bore yesterday. The sump needs a serious amount of work to get anywhere near the original shape, and when draining, clear water gushed out before cleanish oil. The engine has probably been sitting for decades under the bonnet and I’m guessing that the water must be from the cooling system somewhere. The head gasket and piston liners are in excellent condition and there is no sign of corrosion under the tappet cover, although surface corrosion is evident in the cavity below the head and on the crank.
    Where should I start looking for a leak?
    Also, how hard is it to drill out and replace the timing cover bolts?
    In the decades of the engine sitting in the car has water managed to get into the carburettor via the air filter or another similar opening? Small hole in the bonnet slowly dripping into the carburettor, oil cap etc possibly? Had similar happen before on old cars and lawnmowers etc
    Cheers

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Westlake ,brisbane
    Posts
    3,922
    Total Downloaded
    0
    If it is head gasket there should be signs on the gasket where the water has gone from the water jacket hole to one of the holes that drain oil back to the sump / were pushrods come through the gasket. I drought it has gone inti the cylinders if the pistons & bore have not been affected. The only other way I can think how the water got in there is if the vehicle had been under water at some stage/ someone poured water in the oil filler pipe / while vehicle had been sitting in storage if the breather / oil filler cap & bonnet had been left off & rainwater had got in the sump. Just a side story, I bought a Rover P3 75 (same motor only a 6cyl) once found the same issue, the vehicle had been last registered in 1974, could not find why the water was in the sump & no corrosion internally in the engine, later when I drained the oil from the G/ box & Diff the same. On further research found the vehicle had come from an area that had been flooded in 1974 floods.Now with the timing chain cover bolts, have you broken them already? If not give them a good spray with WD40 then give them a hit on the head with a hammer, you may have to do this over a few days, you will need to break the corrosion seal between the steel bolt shaft & the alloy housing. Some of the bolts on the passenger's side you can also spray at the back where they come through the flange on the block the others go into blank holes. Once you start them moving wind them backwards & forwards as you screw them out. You could also try Freeze Off which will shrink the bolt & this can break the seal. On reassembly make sure you use Never Seize or Copper Coat on the bolts to prevent them seizing again.If they have broken, you will need to drill them out making sure you get correct centre & correct size drill, so you don't damage the thread in the block. The threads will be BSF so you will need BSF taps to clean up the threads once removed.GOOD LUCK WITH IT. Drilling out broken bolts is not one of my favourite jobs
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    The Hills.
    Posts
    15,786
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Mustlust View Post
    Also, how hard is it to drill out and replace the timing cover bolts?
    How hard do you want it to be? Everything 1950Landy says is true, and it's a job I would rather tackle with the engine on a bench, clear of all obstructions to ensure I was drilling square. A high quality, hard drill bit really helps as well. So does patience. Otherwise you'll be faffing around with coil inserts, something you don't want.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    ​Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Kiewa Valley, VIC
    Posts
    328
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Thanks Gents,
    Looks like some drilling ahead of me. Given that I have 3 engines to rebuild this year (my 2023 goal) what tap die sizes would I need for the engine, wheel hubs and other spots? I may as well clean anything that is a little rusty.
    Mustlust

    1950 Series 1 80in lights behind grill
    1950 Series 1 80in rolling chassis looking for a body
    1956 Series 1 86in
    1956 Series 1 107
    1957 Series 1 88in
    1967 Mustang coupe 347 stroker
    2011 Discovery 4 3.0
    2009 110 utility 2.4tdci

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Kiewa Valley, VIC
    Posts
    328
    Total Downloaded
    0
    There is a second hand Whitworth tap and die set for sale locally. Is this a kit that I’d ever need for my S1 projects?
    Mustlust

    1950 Series 1 80in lights behind grill
    1950 Series 1 80in rolling chassis looking for a body
    1956 Series 1 86in
    1956 Series 1 107
    1957 Series 1 88in
    1967 Mustang coupe 347 stroker
    2011 Discovery 4 3.0
    2009 110 utility 2.4tdci

  7. #7
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    28,804
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Whitworth is worth having for a Series 1 (or 2/2a for that matter), but many of the threads you want to clean up will be BSF. In my experience you will be very lucky to find sets of BSF taps and dies. But you can get single dies and taps (or can sometimes find them at swap meets, garage sales and op shops) from your tool shop even if they have to order them in. Whitworth sets and individual taps and dies are easy to find, just note that although UNC is similar to Whitworth in many sizes, it is not the same.

    Taps and dies you will probably want include (from memory) 1/4", 5/16", 3/8", 9/16" (wheel studs).

    You may also find you want 2BA and 4BA.

    Although there will have been none of these when it left the factory, expect to find UNF and even metric used in repairs and replacements! (Some carburettor bits are metric, but I don't think they are ISO)
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Westlake ,brisbane
    Posts
    3,922
    Total Downloaded
    0
    You will need booth BSF & BSW / Whitworth taps & dies. About 5 years ago I found a cheap combination set of BSF & BSW on Ebay by an AU seller, from memory were under $50. Looking on Ebay now I could not find any at a reasonable price but could find BSF & BSW in separate sets. I would have put a photo of mine here but for some reason the last two days I have not been able to upload any photos.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Burnie, Tasmania
    Posts
    157
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I ended up buying an Aprica branded BSF set from LPR Toolmakers. They offer a wide range of taps and dies, including Whitworth and BA.

    Cheers,
    Martin
    "Serenity" 1964 Series IIA 109" ̶P̶e̶t̶r̶o̶l̶ 300 Tdi - under restoration
    "Kaylee" 1953 Series I 80" - waiting patiently

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    The Hills.
    Posts
    15,786
    Total Downloaded
    0
    You can get Whitworth spanners, sockets, tap and die sets and thread gauges from Amazon, if you're that way inclined. No idea of quality.



    Whitworth: another word the stupid spell checker doesn't like.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    ​Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!