Thanks for the pic.
So I have a tube bearing on the top of that splined tube. Other end of puller is bearing underneath the steering wheel boss.
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Thanks for the pic.
So I have a tube bearing on the top of that splined tube. Other end of puller is bearing underneath the steering wheel boss.
Sorry. I wasn't aware the S1 column was hollow with a pinch bolt. I'm used to the type that has a solid shaft with a spline, thread and nut. Stand corrected.Quote:
Originally Posted by B.S.F.
My go too method for removing steering wheels is to loosen the nut, and before any other removal method is attempted, is to bang on the rim of the wheel with your fists like you're the hottest, maddest, meanest drummer in the hardest heaviest thrash metal band ... going hell for leather.
Do it in one area first, not around the rim. I usually smash into the top of the rim(easier).
if you need any 'motivation' ... the first minute of Guns'n'Roses You Could be Mine can help .... [biggrin]
Always works! Smaller stg wheels are a bit harder, but I suspect that the series still has it's bus like steering wheel attached.
The vibrations usually loosen years of built up tension.
This was what I was referring to with my comment. You leave the nut on so the wheel doesn't come flying off and make your eyes water. Ask me how I learned this. But this wheel is different. Series 1 have a totally different setup I wasn't aware of, although I have seen it before on an old Daimler. DB18, I believe it was,Quote:
Originally Posted by AK83
An idea that might work………make up some u-shaped steel packers to fit between the lock nut at the top of the column and the steering wheel boss, then try unscrewing the top nut. If it starts moving, don’t go too far with the nut or you might wreck the thread; back the nut off and add more packers and repeat. Hope you have success from this or some other suggestion.
Good luck,
Woolly.
This is the Series I 48-58 Land Rover enthusiast section
The last few posts are not helpful and will only confuse things.
.W.
Nobody gets to choose who posts what, as long as site rules are followed.
I was forgetting early Series 1 have a hollow column. However it should still be possible to use a puller provided you make a seat for the puller that accurately fits the top of the tube. A wedge to spread the split can still be used, as long as it is the right thickness so that it spreads the split before hitting the spline. It does not have to expand it much.
I have an 86” - so I am not sure if my comment ia correct for a 80”.. But here goes -
Yes the column is hollow - thete is a nut/bracket on the end of a rod that is fed through the inside of the hollow tube. The nut has to be removed before you can remove the wheel. It is a completely different setup to a S2/S2A/S3 wheel. I too was trying a puller but the wheel was stuck on fast and it felt like I was going to brake something. I had to remove the hard top in order to get the wheel off!!!
https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery...12bdc2704c.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by McBrain283
I pulled one off last week that had been sitting out in the weather for many years. It was very corroded and stuck on hard! After removing the pinch bolt, which must be torally removed as it locks into the groove in the column to stop the wheel from coming off if the nut comes loose. But I guess you have already done this. First, I cleaned out all the dirt and rust in the top of the bore of the wheel to expose the splines. Heat and penetrating lube. I heat it until the Inox /Lanox (Lanox seems to work well) starts to smoke and bubble a bit, then I tapped a smooth thin tapered wedge or blunt chisel up into the clamping slot parallel to the column taking care not to bruise the alloy casting. Keep heating, cooling, spraying and tapping and wriggling the wheel and all of a sudden, off she comes! As in previous suggestions, don't hit youself in the face when it finally comes off!
good luck! 5380