Series 1 resto tips needed and spares

Well done Diana,i didnt feel like getting my book!LAZY.:angel:

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Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

Numpty the freewheel unit transfer box continued until about 4,000 1951 model vehicles had been made (In the RHD models chassis numbers 16100603, 16160909, 16660787) when they changed to the later selectable 4 wheel drive transfer boxes.

In the 1950 model the ring pull in the floor was replaced with a yellow button mechanism which simply replicated the function of the ring pull. This change happened at chassis number 06103885, when the 1950 model still had the 5" Butler headlights behind the grill, shackles at the front of the front springs, the "sprung" shovel shaped seat backs and the corresponding wide transom.

None of the yellow button 1950s had the fishplate brackets for the front bumper as this changed about 40 vehicles before.

The yellow button 1950s are good because you can retrofit later gearbox assemblies and most people wont know it's not original. :wasntme:Diana

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Thanks for that explanation. I confess, I have never looked too closely at the mechanism.
Always learning.

Numpty

Did you get onto Jim Pearl on Russell Island about spares. He has a number of S1 vehicles which I assume some of which he is going to part out.

Diana

mine is definately a little 80 inch, I was figuring I could make copys of the rear 1/4s using new alloy plate, is this the norm if necessary?, I am clever enuff to do this, I will dig up the numbers of mine and post em and see if that sheds any light as to her exact year of make, could be earlier, could be touch later.

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Originally Posted by landyfromanuthaland

mine is definately a little 80 inch, I was figuring I could make copys of the rear 1/4s using new alloy plate, is this the norm if necessary?, ...

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As the Buddha said "there are many paths to the top of the mountain".

Some people:

• Fill the dents with nikky and paint over!
• Rivet patches and seam separations!
• make whole new tubs!
• anything in-between!

Certainly it is possible to make a new side, they are basically flat with a couple of bends. The biggest problem is going to be the curve of the wheel arch and the reinforcing piece inside.

You should use the correct material which (i believe) is 5025 alloy in 1.2mm.

It is possible to TIG or spot weld old to new panels, but you have to clean off any oxidisation immediately before spot welding. Yes you can use countersink aircraft rivets but that will show on the inside. Then someone like me will come along and start counting them! :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

It is compulsory to post lots of piccys!!

Diana :D:D:twobeers:

Bugger, sounds like its gonna be a real chore, i dont want to half **** the thing and fill it with poop and be happy, have to pop the rivets and get the old panel off, maybe it can be straightened, will photograph the progress for u all