Here we go - I have the grille panel going in for some welding tomorrow and (hopefully) I can have it repaired
Both ends on the bottom edge are in need of some TLC.
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Hi Troy/Diana
the paint was mixed by Protec and is Equipment Enamel
the tint codes is as follows
Tint Grams
0000 80
0503 208
2511 144.4
7543 44.4
8544 549
I had it matched from a sample off a old Landy engine
what made you think it's a 2A colour Diana as I got it off a 1600 motor
cheers
Ian
Here we go - I have the grille panel going in for some welding tomorrow and (hopefully) I can have it repaired
Both ends on the bottom edge are in need of some TLC.
![]()
I got a phone call today to be told that my front grille panel was ready for picking up. Let me tell you – work didn’t get in the way of me doing just that! I was out there like a flash and very, very happy with the results
:
The fella has reinforced the bottom part by welding additional small panels in behind the original. As the panel had previously cracked or broken along this section it sounded like it was a good idea. I do have some holes to drill (but I am sure that I can manage that bit)
Overall – it will need some minor touch up with spray-putty but she will come up a treat. (Thanks for that tip Ian – I am preparing myself to be doing a lot of it after I give the panel beating a go).
I am getting excited now as the project is coming together nicely, thanks to a lot of help from people on this forum, and should be going together over my Christmas break. There isn’t anything better than this to do over a break from work. I am really looking forward to it.
Anyway – to this weekend… The Red-Kote has arrived and I shall sort out that leaky fuel tank on Saturday. Then it is the welding of the horns to get the bumper where it should be (can’t wait to admire that thing in the right spot). Monday shall see me tidying up some of my undercoating that is around the bulkhead and I may try to sort out the speedo (again – thanks to Ian’s help here)
. Whilst on Tuesday – I reckon I need to get things done before 1200 as there is an opportunity to have a few beers come that time
(oh yes – apparently there is a horse race on too).
Whilst all of this is happening during the weekend, I shall be admiring my work and placing up as many photos as I possibly can for all of you lot to look at(that’s if I can get my daughter off the computer).
Hi Troy
Cut the plug off the P.C., that will fix that problem.
It is good to see you could get the panel fixed.
He did a good job welding it up.
I had a interesting day painting yesterday.
too much dust and flying pest's.
Look's like I will using lot more wet and dry.
cheers
Ian
Hi there Troy
The water pumps are ready for pick up - will sort out when I get back home from up north..........eventually..........what a big week.
Ian "back-in" - how did tea go last night did you make here do the dishes.....
Wayne
PS will call you over the weekend..................
Thanks Wayne - shall hear from you soon.
Ian - I would cut off the plug but then I can t use it. She has gone to a mates place for the weekend so I will have no problem for a couple of days.
Bugger about the painting so far. I reckon that will be something for me to watch out for once I get into it.
I lost half the day with doing "other stuff" around the home but I still got the tank off and cleaned up. She was rusty alright
But after a degrease and a high-pressure scrub she started to look good. As I had mixed the Red-Kote in prep for use tomorrow, I sprayed Penetrol over the outside of everything. Even using it on the chassis where I had not been able to get around before.
I shall let things dry off around the chassis overnight and hit it with some rust-proofing under body stuff tomorrow. Same for the tank after the Red-Kote has dried.
She should not leak anything for a long time.![]()
I dont know if it has been brought up recently, but I was once told that cracking on the radiator support panel is due to not replacing some rubber spacers/buffers which between the panel and the chassis.
Has anyone seen these or one know what these buffers are supposed to look like?
They are shown in the parts book and are square and about 1/4" thick from memory. Their function is to stop the panel rubbing on the chassis cross-member.
I suspect the panel cracks because of its inadequate design in coping with: the weight of the radiator, bonnet and spare wheel, plus people standing on the wings and bonnet because they can. Coupled with vibration, the poor little thing at the bottom of the heap, is bound to give up eventually,
Cheers Charlie
There is a reason Series 2 changed to steel - but many Series 2 and 3 I have found have the tabs that support the panel cracked!
Having the rubber there and elastic is probably worthwhile to reduce the cracking, though. The material is reinforced insertion rubber, and 1/4" thick sounds right.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
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