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Thread: starting series 1 restoration

  1. 12th March 2010, 03:21 PM #121
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    Mick-Kelly
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    Doesnt bother me how its made, bolt in is much easier than weld in for future gearbox work.
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  2. 12th March 2010, 03:23 PM #122
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    agreed there
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  3. 14th March 2010, 12:52 PM #123
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    just wondering what is the difference between a s1 swivel housing to a s2 or s3 swivel housing
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  4. 14th March 2010, 01:11 PM #124
    mildred
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    Thumbs up swivel housing

    Quote Originally Posted by schmierer LR at singleton View Post
    just wondering what is the difference between a s1 swivel housing to a s2 or s3 swivel housing
    Tony, I don't think that there is any difference between S1 and S2, because it was cheaper for me to replace the complete assembly rather than try to repair the hub with various parts. I bought 2 brand new S2 hubs complete (which were ex army stock) from 4 wheel drives in Melbourne and they fitted straight onto my axle. Still working perfectly with the standard 60 foot turning circle
    Peter...
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  5. 14th March 2010, 01:31 PM #125
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    Hi 1948 to 1953 swivel challice (chrome ball) are different to the later series 1s as they use the Tracta joints and not universeal joints.

    Series 1s from 1954 have the same swivel challice as the series 2As and 3s
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  6. 14th March 2010, 01:45 PM #126
    mildred
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    tractor joints

    Quote Originally Posted by Lost Landy View Post
    Hi 1948 to 1953 swivel chalice (chrome ball) are different to the later series 1s as they use the Tracta joints and not universal joints.

    Series 1s from 1954 have the same swivel chalice as the series 2As and 3s
    Yes mine were tractor joints from series 2 (Army issue) and they fitted straight onto my S1, so you are right again ooOH great master
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  7. 14th March 2010, 04:39 PM #127
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    dag nammit i was hoping you guys were going to say "yeah they are all the same" but no.well i have 2 that are no good and 2 that are a bit iffy but i suppose iffy will have to do
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  8. 14th March 2010, 05:14 PM #128
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    got a bit more done to the chassis today as well as pulling another front diff apart except for the diff centre.i put a few more holes in specially into those that didnt have any holes, a good decision i think because there was a bit of flaky rust.also ground out where a sping has puntured the chassis.cut out the gearbox crossmember and pulled out most of the steering box
    anyway ill let the photos do the rest of the speaking.








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  9. 14th March 2010, 06:08 PM #129
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  10. 15th March 2010, 02:09 PM #130
    mildred
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    Thumbs down when you cut out metal on the chassis

    Quote Originally Posted by schmierer LR at singleton View Post








    Hi Tony,
    A Word of warning when cutting out big chunks of metal on your chassis. Brace and or prop up the part before cutting out.If you don't there is a chance that you may weld in new metal and the chassis has sagged or is sitting in a slightly twisted position! (out of winding). If you level the work in hand both ways (FORWARD AND SIDEWAYS) then you can always return to that area and set it up as it was originally and carry on with the repairs. I hope that this makes sense to you? If you weld in a repair and the chassis is in a twisted position it will then always be like that for the rest of its life!
    Regards Peter
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