Thread: starting series 1 restoration

Nice work Tony-smurf!


for some reason I thought that your 'spray suit" would have been blue

and

the chassis was going to be blue too!!!



maybe to make it look the goods, get that motor etc "soda or bead blasted" whilst out, only exposed wiring anything bakelite or similar at threat from bad finish with that so should be able to take complete -get done, wash off and or paint and install, will then look new and should only cost $50 or $100 depending on who's near you.... (Ive been quoted $600 for a 109, inside/outside/engine and engine bay with a soda blaster!). It gets all the nooks and crannys looking fantastic.

well done mate...
KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK... (meccano time soon, putting it all back!)
digger

just have to finish off another diff centre and then meccano

Originally Posted by schmierer LR at singleton

and lets just say what if all springs are the same.what could i do to fix that without getting new springs

If you have left and right springs the same it will lean to the right. You probably have a spring works nearby that will reset the springs. I think Diana has posted a list of spring cambers somewhere in this forum, but I am not certain it included Series 1.

I would be inclined to reset the original springs if possible, rather than get new ones, as the leaf thickness used in Series Landrovers (except for rear 109) is no longer available, and the thinner leaves of the originals give better results.

At first glance, you would think that the lean would be to the left, since the engine is offset to the left. But masses to the right, not balanced by anything except the slight engine offset, include the transfer case and handbrake, steering column, steering relay, sprung proportion of two prop shafts, battery, fuel tank, and, often, the driver. These are all further offset than the engine is. The Series Landrover is sensitive to this uneven mass distribution, because of the long travel suspension and the lack of sway bars. It is worse in the swb because the rear springs are further inboard.

John

oh goody

Nice work Tony!

It is probably too late, as I suspect that you have already painted the pedals, but I noticed that like mine the raised bumps had worn off in the same place. I restored mine by holding the MIG torch very still and giving it a high-voltage burst for about 2 seconds on top of each worn bump.

The reason I mention it, is that a picky inspector may not pass it at licencing, although an alternative is to fit rubber pedal covers,

Cheers Charlie

yes i thought about that but i just thught i would put rubber pedal covers on i have other pedals there that i might try doing what you did

We wish you the best of luck Tony on geting this little truck finished and registered

Originally Posted by chazza

Nice work Tony!

It is probably too late, as I suspect that you have already painted the pedals, but I noticed that like mine the raised bumps had worn off in the same place. I restored mine by holding the MIG torch very still and giving it a high-voltage burst for about 2 seconds on top of each worn bump.

The reason I mention it, is that a picky inspector may not pass it at licencing, although an alternative is to fit rubber pedal covers,

Cheers Charlie

Another good tip is to get or make a copper washer to spot the little lumps on the pedals. After a little practice they will all come out the same.........