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One thing nobody has mentioned is the two thin diaphrams in the carby . The accelerator pump and the economy valve ( or more correctly, the power valve ) . Over time , the diaphrams tend to become hard and they lose flexibility .. your car will hesitate as you hit the juice to go. And it will tend to run rich if the economy diaphram is U/S.
Interesting point about the petrol octane .... you learn something new on this forum every day ...
Mike
Good progress today - replaced oil and filter, dumped old fuel and flushed tank, new battery and plugs in, head, side and tail lights all work and starter turns over - but no start.Quote:
Originally Posted by JDNSW
Fuel pump ticks over immediately power is on and seems to come up to pressure(?) and slows then stops within seconds. Starter turns strongly (but slowly) but absolutely no sign of ignition.
Think I'll try to work out what's happening with fuel first - between the pump and the carb - then try to get a spark from each plug lead off the block (avoiding the puddles of fuel).
Is there anything else I should eliminate?
D
If you open the throttle butterfly with the engine turned off and whilst you look down the throat, you should see a squirt of fuel come out. This will indicate whether or not it is a petrol issue. If there is no petrol. it is time to strip and blow out the carburettor with compressed air. If you tip any fuel down the carburettor, be very careful and DO NOT do it while the engine is carnking, or you could end up with severe burns if it backfires. A very small capful is all that is required.
If there is fuel, work backwards from the spark plugs checking for a strong blue spark. With the ignition turned on the contact breakers should emit a very faint spark when opened with a screwdriver, if not inspect the low tension circuit for loose connections or broken wires. Inspect the distributor cap for a sticking or missing carbon brush and that the contacts are clean and not too badly worn; make sure the rotor arm is in good order. Check for a spark from the coil by holding the HT lead close to an earth, whilst someone cranks the engine with the ignition turned on (a wooden holder is advisable to prevent electrocution :eek:) Look for a good blue spark; substitute a coil if you think that may be the problem (not the ballast resistor type).
If you have fuel and spark and it still won't go, check the compression pressures (mine started even though the rings were gummed up and the compression was negligble). Check the valve timing by turning the engine by hand and observing the rockers at the same time - both should be closed when the piston reaches TDC (feel for the little poof of escaping gas getting past your thumb as you hold it over the spark plug hole. It is a surprisingly powerful poof at times and should indicate enough compression to start the engine.
And as final after-thought, did you use choke when trying to start last time?
Cheers Charlie
Thanks ChazzaQuote:
Originally Posted by chazza
Fuel idefintely OK, at least as far as the carb - but no blue spark.
Faint sparking between contact points opened with a screwdriver, as you suggested, but nothing from spark plug leads or lead from coil.
As you may have gathered, I'm a bit new to electrics, so live in hope I can fix this with an inexpensive replacement part - maybe the coil? Apart from taking the old one in (or even older Lucas model found in the toolbox), is there a particular brand/spec that I should be going for, or avoiding?
The electrics further 'upstream' is a nightmare - tangled, frayed and perished wiring, grommets and ominous loose ends, painted over in places. I will need to sort it all out properly but for now I just want a strong blue spark. If the coil sound like the culprit I'll get one tomorrow.
Thanks again
D
When testing the spark by opening the points with a screwdriver, are you making sure the screwdriver does not short the points?Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamin'
Apart from this, the coil is not necessarily the problem - have a good look at the points - if they are badly burnt, they will stop any significant spark. Similarly, the condenser (capacitor) if faulty will also reduce the spark to very little (and at the same time cause more sparking + burning at the points). A further possible problem is the earth wire from the contact breaker plate to the distributor body. Either a break in this wire or a poor connection at either end can cause no spark. A test for both this and the points (but not the condenser), and for primary continuity of the coil, is to connect a 5w 12v light between the coil terminal that goes to the distributor and the engine. It should light when the points are open and go completely out when the points are closed. A multimeter will also work, although because of the low current draw it will not show up bad connections in the supply of voltage to the coil (e.g. faulty ignition switch contacts).
If you need a coil, the only important thing is to get one that is NOT designed to use with a ballast resistor (ones that are so designed should be labelled 8v not 12v, but may have 12v plus something a bit cryptic that indicates they are designed to use with a resistor).
John
Points,Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamin'
Condensor
Coil
Check/Replace in that order - test by putting your tongue on the HT lead:eek:
Thanks again JohnQuote:
Originally Posted by JDNSW
Next weekend will be all about points.
Going through the box of bits today I came across several sets of points - mostly used ones same as those currently fitted, with 'bakelite' or similar components and a long curved spring. But there were also some new ones of a different style, all metal, with a hairpin-shaped spring and plastic insulators. A couple of these are still in packets, make/part nos as follows:
Automax S11V (270V)
Repco/Lorimer S11V
AC Delco GB534 (VS10858) BOSCH
Packaging lists a range of 60's-80's Ford, Holden and Chrysler models.
Are these likely to be suitable repleacements?
Thanks again
D
No idea - but if you compre them to the ones in the car it should give you some indication. The base plate mounting holes need to be exactly the same.Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamin'
Changing points can be tricky if you have never done it before, so get a good workshop manual that details how to do it as it is easy to make a mistake if you don't understand the current flow and how to set the point gap properly.
I have forgotten what type of S1 Arfur is but if you search this forum you will find a thread discussing where to buy new points from.
Getting someone who has done it before to help you, is also a good idea,
Cheers Charlie
If you need a new coil.. go to your nearest Bareco tractor parts dealer ( there is one in every town in Australia ) and ask for a grey fergy coil.. they sell a modern replacement for the old LUCAS 1950's coil, with the same screw in type connector. Make sure its a 12 V one ..not 6 volt .look at B5212
web site here Specials New
Mike
Went down to the local Repco today and got Bosch points (GL10) and condenser (GL103) straight out of the book and off the shelf - no problem.
They also had a coil clearly listing Landrover Series I-III (nd others) on the box. About $60 for that one - from memory - so it's there if I need it.
So plenty to get on with but, looking at it all again tonight, the connectiions and leads from the battery terminals are so corroded and damaged, in places, it's a wonder anything gets through at all.
Saw some replacement brass clamps for the battery at Repco but none of the heavy-duty 'cables' for earth, starter etc - can make these up myself?
Thanks again for all the help and interesting sidetracks
D