1955 S1 rebuild

Well another weekend is over and yes i did more on the slow goin chassi. the rear end is pretty much complete now the front end. needs a good clean inside the chassi and outside. have that darn bush to rip out as well.:mad:

will try and get some fish oil this week.:) concentrating on the chassi to end all the cleaning some welding required for a buggered cross member below g'box which has a buckle.:mad:

cut off the extra shock mount on inside chassi:D

though the paint finish is not perfect it looks good from a distance. its a stop rust silver paint enamel. thinking of spraying some spray putty over the paint and repainting the chassi with a spray gun instead of painting by hand and brush for that extra smooth finish;) just to iron out the rougher patches.

painted the bottom of the tray black enamel with again a brush but needs a full spray in black when its warmer weather:cool:

Not sure about the look of the bottom of the rear tray. painted in black enamel but doesn't look good. chassi is silver and thought the black would look cool:cool: what have others painted underneath their tray, thought of green like the landie but black should look ok. the brown colour is other sound deadening paint. not complete yet but a nice distraction from the chassi work from time to time. :D any thoughts welcome or am i just being too fussy:wasntme:

Joe

The chassis in that era were usually black or body colour for 1949-54 and the underside of the body unpainted except for over-spray of the body colour.

If you're going with a silver painted chassis, then I'd personally prefer the underside of the body be in the raw or with a clear coat or even something like wheel silver.

But it's all personal choice isn't it?

Diana

hi there all,

chassi almost complete for now. hammered the sides and its amazing the dust and soil that comes out of a chassi. painted silver and looks pretty impressive. quiet happy with the look of the chassi:D thank god thats over cleaning the chassi. knocked up some timber legs to hold the chassi up of the floor easier to work on now thou not very strong. always weary that it may drop till i make some more supports underneath;)

the engine haven't managed to get the flywheel off. how does one prize it off gently. not sure? :mad: is there a easy way to get it off without damage:( really want to sort out the motor and clean it b4 painting it up. bought the supercheap blue engine paint. sump has been cleaned need more thou:D

finally the seized motor still wont turn:mad: what should i be doing here. some one suggested the bearings could be seized, should i undo each piston shaft and bearings to see what? not sure what Im doing here so any help appreciated.;) do i need to remove the oil sump filter as well or should i just remove the bearing covers each individually. what do i look out for here. if the bearings are seized:cool: not sure what needs replacing to free up the motor:D

:D:D:D

The engine being seized is most likely one or more pistons seized in the bore, as this is the only place that two bits of ferrous (and hence rust prone) metal rub on each other. To confirm this, it is probably a good idea to remove all the big end bearing caps and see which (if any) pistons can be moved. When you do this, keep track of which bearing cap belongs to which bore (and the same for any bits you remove - all should go back in the same cylinder they came from - applies to things like rockers, valves, tappets pistons etc. Even if it does not matter, it won't hurt.

When you have found a stuck piston, a generous serve of penetrating oil is indicated. Treat the pistons gently - S1 pistons are expensive, and if possible you will want to reuse them.

I assume you have a workshop manual - if not, get one!

John

Hi all,

Latest updates still on the engine for the 55 model. Its a standard petrol motor but one of the pistons has seized in prob rusted in. oil is trapped and will not flow thru like the others chambers. how do i loosen the piston to move.:mad:I have tried pouring diesel and oil into the chamber for last few days and hammered on top but wont budge, careful not to break anything. help:angel:Im guessing it may be better to try and twist the piston rather then exert pressure to move up or down.:( can someone explain what the oil filter contraption is below in the sump and what the side large nut does as you tighten. it has a small ball in it. what does this do:wasntme:

chassi is almost complete needed some more work. need to weld in some new sections of steel.;) gearbox washed with degreaser twice now but needs more. sump has some dents in it so will need to fix up.

When JD mentioned penetrating oil, he meant a product called Penetrene. Can be a bit hard to get sometimes. Let that sit in there for a couple of days and try it again.

Looking good keep it up, cant wait to see your next lot of progress photos.

Its been a while since my last update but the firewall has gone in. :)

Ive forgotten on how the steering assembly goes on. Once the shaft goes thru the firewall hole, there seems to be nothing on the engine side, is that right? Opposite side is a mesh with a plate covering it with two large holes in pic. Can someone post a pic of the correct set up. Then the cover plate comes on which is to the left of the pic. Am i missing something here.:cool: should there be another plate behind the steering wheel engine side and why is there the 6 smaller holes surrounding the hole, I must be missing a plate. the front cover plate has two large holes which dont line up with the 6 smaller holes on firewall.



2nd pic - what holds the accelerator rod from sliding out. Have i installed correctly nothing seems to hold it from sliding out.:cool: tried looking at builds with close up of this pic but cant seem to find any!

engine piston still stuck, used lubricating oil wont budge:mad:
gearbox being cleaned and ready for install soon:)