With a Series One Dan, one would have to look for the instructions carved into a tablet somewhere. Probably precedes paper and pen
Glen
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With a Series One Dan, one would have to look for the instructions carved into a tablet somewhere. Probably precedes paper and pen
Glen
The chassis end should always be a long male thread with a taper and as John says a locking nut to clamp to the chassis bracket then a "flare nut" on the brake pipe that fits over the hose.
At the other end there are in fact a number of differences, that don't usually affect your model.None of the series brake hoses had a female fitting at any end.
- The 80" had a short hose that screwed into the stem of a brass "banjo" fitting which in turn had a special bolt and copper washers that mated it to the wheel cylinder.
- Some long wheelbase models with 11" brakes had a hose with a male flare nut fitting at both ends and a bracket mounted to the swivel seal retaining plate. There was then a flare nut and short brake pipe to the wheel cylinder.
- The system described above was also fitted to the 109" SIII military.
- The early 109 SIIA forward controls had a further modification where the brake pipe went to the bottom cylinder with the bleed screw fitted in the top cylinder.
Diana
So, anybody, any clues what that hose may have come off originally.
Are we going to be better off replicating that existing system, or replacing all the brake lines throughout to fit the correct system.
Why would it have been altered in the first place?
I am beginning to think that perhaps Matilda hasn't ever read the Land Rover book!
Regards
Glen
Glen
Not a clue what it could have come off, although likely to be something that used Girling or equivalent brake parts.
Why: The flare nut or particularly the locking nut can be a pain to remove when rusty, often resulting in having to cut the hose off. :mad:
Lots of cars go to brake specialists for brake repairs instead of Land Rover mechanics and they modify it with the parts they have on the shelf. It is very easy for them to make new brake lines. They may have replaced it with one of the ones that are held in place with a spring clip.
Your choice to replace like for like or return to original. The proviso would be the the replacement design actually has sufficient length for suspension and steering without rubbing or abraiding. If you have them made up at someone like ENZed get them to fit the spring over the rubber hose for extra protection.
If you return to original you may find the hole in the bracket is larger than original and you will have to have the brake pipes re-made back to the union under the steering box.
Diana
In the picture of the hose below ,there seems to be clip near the male end on the rubber.(All rusty by the looks)That usually carries the part number.It could be a L/R ,PBR , Girling ......number.If you find a number let us know.
Biloxi
Can't find any number but both ends are marked PBR
Regards
Glen
Hey everyone - I'm really amazed at the knowledge here! :TakeABow: How hard could it be to replace the brake components, I thought! :D
I really appreciate everyone's input and help here. So thanks :)