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Thread: New Toy - 1957 107" ute

  1. #131
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    Progress.......

    Last weekend to get myself a bit motivated I decided to do some reassembly and put the cab back together, just cleaning up, removing some old seat belts, finding the bolts and cleaning them up and reassembly.

    IMG_9714.jpg

    Today I got motivated to tackle the rear suspension bushes, I got all six of them done in about 5 hours which I reckon is pretty good considering how rusty they were. The ball joint press was once more put into action and did an awesome job. I bought it to do the balljoints on my Falcon ute but its just the go for any bush that needs to be pressed on the vehicle.

    IMG_0166.jpg



    Regards,
    Tote
    Go home, your igloo is on fire....
    2014 Chile Red L494 RRS Autobiography Supercharged
    MY2016 Aintree Green Defender 130 Cab Chassis
    1957 Series 1 107 ute - In pieces

    Assorted Falcons and Jeeps.....

  2. #132
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    Fitted some new fuel lines from the Series one shop this afternoon

    IMGP0556.jpg

    IMGP0554.jpg

    Yes, I know it is the wrong style of fuel pump....

    The Aldi pipe bender that I bought a couple of years ago finally got put to some use


    Regards,
    Tote
    Go home, your igloo is on fire....
    2014 Chile Red L494 RRS Autobiography Supercharged
    MY2016 Aintree Green Defender 130 Cab Chassis
    1957 Series 1 107 ute - In pieces

    Assorted Falcons and Jeeps.....

  3. #133
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    IMAG0805.jpgYou may find you will need to mount the pump on it's side & it should have top or up writen on it to show which way it mounts. There should be a thick rubber washer between the base & the mounting plate to stop the sound of the pump through the bulkhead. The pump will also need a earth . I see you have the earth terminal but can't see any wire connected to it. The outlet faces up with a 90deg elbow.

  4. #134
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    Thanks for the pic, I was looking for one of those last night. At the moment my priority is to get her mobile so I can make some progress. I'll need to get a correct pump so I can mount it in the right orientation, I don't think the one I have has mounts to bolt it on correctly and uses the clamp around the body instead, it was probably repurposed for something else in the past. I do have the right angle connector though, so I can sort that with the correct pump and outlet hose.
    Regards,
    Tote
    Go home, your igloo is on fire....
    2014 Chile Red L494 RRS Autobiography Supercharged
    MY2016 Aintree Green Defender 130 Cab Chassis
    1957 Series 1 107 ute - In pieces

    Assorted Falcons and Jeeps.....

  5. #135
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    I think if you take the 2 screws out in the base the holes should match up with the holes in the mounting bracket. I can't remember if they are 1/4 W or BSf bolts though. The rubber is usually about 5mm thick. If you are buying a new pump you will need to make sure it is a low pressure pump ( suction pump) were high pressure pumps are mounted at the fuel tank (push pumps).

  6. #136
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    Thanks 1950landy, the two screws in the pump were just plugs, the bolts holding the pump on with the other bracket fit in the end housing threads. I've got to get a rubber insulator and the isolators for the bolts now, but it looks better in the correct position.
    212557- mounting plate
    212558 - Rubber bush x 2

    IMGP0557.1.jpg



    Regards,
    Tote
    Go home, your igloo is on fire....
    2014 Chile Red L494 RRS Autobiography Supercharged
    MY2016 Aintree Green Defender 130 Cab Chassis
    1957 Series 1 107 ute - In pieces

    Assorted Falcons and Jeeps.....

  7. #137
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    Some more progress and decision time. I have been focused on getting bits and pieces back on the vehicle so it is at least a single pile of parts. I fitted the correct radiator I picked up late last year and reformed the support panel from where it had been modified to fit a series 2 unit and did some bits and bobs like refitting the rear tailshaft. I filled the tank with some fuel, dismantled and cleaned the carby and fitted a new set of plugs and cranked her over. The engine runs and does not blow very much smoke, however it does not run on all cylinders and I suspect that that it maybe has burnt valves. Is removing the head the best (only) way to ascertain this or is there another trick? I don't know the history of the engine but the 86 it was in had been used as a paddock basher and presumably was parked when it expired.

    My dilemma is that given the sporadic nature of how often I work on Geraldine I don't want to pull the head off and leave her for any length of time disassembled. I do have plenty to do such as putting the tray on etc but any opinions on the likelihood of burnt valves would be welcome.

    IMGP0617.1.jpg
    You can see the wet deposits around the exhaust ports on cyl 2 and 3


    IMGP0618.1.jpg
    Correct radiator fitted

    Regards,
    Tote
    Go home, your igloo is on fire....
    2014 Chile Red L494 RRS Autobiography Supercharged
    MY2016 Aintree Green Defender 130 Cab Chassis
    1957 Series 1 107 ute - In pieces

    Assorted Falcons and Jeeps.....

  8. #138
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    If it will turn over with the starter motor do a compression test , if you have not got a compression gauge I don't think they are very expensive at the likes of Super Cheap. If you have any burnt out valves there will be a big veneration between the reading's between the cylinders. If it has been sitting for awhile it may pay to put a couple of squirts of oil in each cylinder & leave it sit over night before testing so the rings seal properly.

  9. #139
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Cranking the engine by hand will rapidly tell you if there is low compression on one or more cylinders that would be the case if an exhaust valve is leaking badly enough to cause misfiring. More definitively, do this with the exhaust pipe disconnected and crank slowly while listening to the exhaust.

    And probably worth checking both exhaust and inlet valve clearance as well. If you have very uneven compression without hissing at either exhaus or inlet manifolds then you almost certainly are going to have to pull the head off, and expect rings and bearings at the least. Which can be done in the vehicle - I have done it.

    But, in the end, the most likely cause of very uneven compression on this engine is burnt exhaust valves.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  10. #140
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    Thanks JD, you've pretty much described my symptoms. I'm pretty sure that I did check the valve clearances and they were mostly OK. I'll continue with the bits that I can do and schedule the head work so it can be done within a reasonable time frame.

    Regards,
    Tote
    Go home, your igloo is on fire....
    2014 Chile Red L494 RRS Autobiography Supercharged
    MY2016 Aintree Green Defender 130 Cab Chassis
    1957 Series 1 107 ute - In pieces

    Assorted Falcons and Jeeps.....

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