Electric Land Rover Series IIA

Brilliant news Ian... have trawled that EV website a few times and watched the youtube videos many times over the last year or so. Will be watching with interest :)

Laurie any chance you have a PDF of the article?

I agree, that por15 stuff is so bloody hard to get it all off once it does start peeling off. (and it will) I don't think it is UV stable as I have a chassis that seemed ok (some peeling) till I stripped the body off and 1 month later all is coming off.

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Originally Posted by peterg1001

I would think twice before using KBS/POR15. There's a mile of instructions come with the products, and most of them are about surface preparation. The problem is that POR15 doesn't adhere well to a surface.

I used POR15 on my chassis (Stripping the original vehicle down to a rolling chassis with engine/gearbox) and have regretted it ever since. The damn stuff peels off in layers as soon as you look at it - and that's after talking endlessly to the the guy at PPC (I forget his name - the South African bloke).

It's not that hard either - I used it on the wheels, and it won't even sustain minor dings.

I would use Killrust if I did it again. Sandblast the chassis, one coat of etch primer, one coat of red oxide, then two coats of enamel.

Peter

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Originally Posted by indybike

Peter
I think we are talking two different products KBS rustseal is not the same as POR15. At least the bloke in the videos doesn't make it look too hard :) Videos - Demonstrating How To Use KBS Coatings - Stop Rust
The surface prep actually isn't that involved as I am already stripping the chassis to the bare metal due to a very bad case of the wrong paint used. I'll let you know how I go.
Ian

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I've used both, and I can't tell the difference. I suspect two different companies are importing the same product and repackaging for their own distribution.

Interesting to see sideroad's comments.

By all means let us know how you go.

Peter

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Originally Posted by Sideroad

I don't think it is UV stable as I have a chassis that seemed ok (some peeling) till I stripped the body off and 1 month later all is coming off.

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It's not, it requires a UV top coat. But without it, it just goes a dull black/grey colour. Preparation is the important step, as this paint is a chemical adhering paint. (And most important of all, MUST be stirred not shaken. As it won't bond to the metal and rust if you shake it, as it will bubble).

I have done the front radiator mount with POR15, and it came up very nicely.

Wolf

Ive used POR15 on all my cars and bikes, never had a problem with it.

"Its not that hard either" is not something ive ever heard said about POR15!

The trick is to have a ROUGH bare metal or rust converted surface, sandblasted is ideal.
Wire brushed surfaces will NOT work.
Make sure you topcoat it while the POR is slightly tacky, it will never stick otherwise.

Ive used the KBS stuff too and exactly the same rules apply.