Rust converter

I finished a 1 year trial last Feb. in which I tested a variety of corrosion inhibitors on samples of rusty steel left outside, including a control.

Penetrol performed best by far and still looks the same as when I applied it; the other samples have got rustier.

I won't bother using anything else on areas I can't sandblast, or use molasses on :D

Cheers Charlie

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Originally Posted by peterg1001

There's a fair bit in the literature which suggets that rust converter is not an overly good approach. Essentially, you're painting on phosphoric acid, which should convert some or all of the rust (ferric oxide) to ferric phosphate.

The concern is that there may be some phosphoric acid left behind, and the adhesion qualities of the ferric phosphate may be limited.

My experience is that mechanical removal of as much rust as possible gives the best results (and I accept that some areas are not sufficiently accessible), followed by a coat of red oxide primer, followed by 2 coats of enamel.

I would recommend White Knight red oxide primer and Killrust enamel, but that's a subjective opinion.

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Chassis black is an inferior product, designed for short term beautification not long term protection.

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You might consider hiring a 15cfm compressor (it'll need to be petrol driven) for a day (say $75), and buying a sand blaster gun from Super Cheap. They do a nice one with a built in container for about $45.

For $120 and a days work, you'll get a much better outcome than using rust converter.

Peter

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How Ironic I was going to lash out on POR15 and other members said an unnecessary expenditure, just use chassis black.

I went out and bought a 5L tin of chassis black only now to be told its an inferior product:eek:..

DB

If you want an excellent option you can use POR15 Rust preventative paint. PPC - POR 15® Rust Preventive Paint. POR15 products are expensive however there few if any other products that are better. It's one downside with the rust preventative paint is that it is not UV stabilised and the black colour will turn a charcoal grey colour over a few years if exposed to sunlight.

Diana

Sorry Diana, I'll have to disagree with you about POR-15. See Fixing the chassis.

It's awful stuff to put on, it doesn't adhere, and nothing adheres to it.

It isn't particularly tough - the rims I painted have dings through the POR-15 from putting the tyres on, and they're rusting.

BTW - it discolors after a week in sunlight, although Rod at PPC (PPC - Restoration Specialists) reckons this doesn't affect the permanence of the paint.

If you really want to try POR-15, try KBS instead - see Cleaning up the fuel tank. It appears to be identical, and it's a bit cheaper.

Strongly not recommended.

Peter

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Originally Posted by dullbird

Thanks Bunjeel

Looks good any idea of cost?

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Galmet Ironise costs about $50 a litre and is generally available from engineering suppliers (You won't find it at Bunnings). Personally I've had no problems with paint adhesion or rust returning but I do agree if you can eliminate the rust entirely by sandblasting before applying a good primer, that's a better option.

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Originally Posted by peterg1001

Sorry Diana, I'll have to disagree with you about POR-15. See Fixing the chassis.

It's awful stuff to put on, it doesn't adhere, and nothing adheres to it.

<snip>

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Peter

I'll take your information on board, however your powder coated chassis is a very unusual situation and getting anything to stick to powder coating is always a problem.

Personally I would never use powdercoating on a chassis. Any large rock scraping the chassis or kicked up by the tyres, will crack the membrane and then you end up with moisture being held next to the steel of the chassis. Just look what happens to powder coated garden furniture.

Galvanising is a good durable protection, but can warp in the process and a real problem to repair if damaged.

I have also seen great quality jobs done with POR 15, although they had turned charcoal grey, a colour many people would not do a chassis.

The only way to get rid of rust is sand blasting or chemical dipping.
Rust converters, and i probably tried the majority of them are not that good at long term solution. If you don"t get rid of all the rust it will come back
Chassis black is just that. Nothing wrong with it. I use K&H black. Yes it will go dull after a while. So what it's a chassis.

This chassis was done over 6 years ago. Don't get washed very often.




https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...010/05/633.jpg

Cool thanks for that groucho :cool:

I'd like to get this done but at a minimum of $500 I wonder if it's cost effective?
If it means I can use cheaper paint then that would reduce it &, let's face it, it's a great way of springboarding your project in the right direction!

Actually, with the LR's simple ladder chassis, I can do most of it with a combo of Rupes orbital sander (with an exhaust duct to collect the dust!), plus an angle grinder with a wire brush. Then I can highllight the areas I can't do with a leftover aerosol paint can & tell the Blasters to just do those bits.

Comments?

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Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

Galvanising is a good durable protection, but can warp in the process and a real problem to repair if damaged.

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I had my chassis hot-dipped but there was no distortion at all. I suspect chassis that have distorted may have had thinned parts from rust on them.

What sort of problems do you expect at repair time? If the chassis needs welding it is really only a case of grinding off the zinc; welding; and then treating with paint and something good such as Penetrol on the inside.

The worst disadvantage I experienced was the extra weight the zinc added to the chassis but as my S1 is no racing machine, I decided not to worry about it,

Cheers Charlie