Rust converter

**dullbird** · 19th May 2010, 09:46 AM

I was thinking I would like to treat the chassis and the axles with some rust converter before painting

The chassis isn't overly covered in surface rust but I thought the bits that are evident I could do this too.

The diff housing and the axles do have some surface rust, and was just thinking that a rust converter might get into the nooks and crannies of things

what's your thoughts?

are there any particular ones to use... I don't really need suppa doopa expensive stuff as I was only really doing it more as precautionary measures before painting, if there were areas that didn't clean up so well.

EDIT: actually could it be used on the springs as well?

**Don 130** · 19th May 2010, 11:40 AM

I've had good results using penetrol. In the case of your chassis, a coat of neat penetrol followed by oil based paint with 10% penetrol added will give good protection. I've also used the stuff to brush paint my tray, achieving a finish as good as a spray job. Just follow the instructions on the can. Don't buy more than you expect to use within about a year. Once a decent proportion has been taken from the can, the rest will start to go off over time. As it is added to the paint it increases the volumne, so consider this in your calculations. Also if using it with flat or satin finishes, it will raise the gloss level about one notch. Don.

**dullbird** · 19th May 2010, 12:15 PM

I already have a tin of chassis black for the chassis nod....

can it still be used if its not an oil based paint?

Bunjeel · 19th May 2010, 04:21 PM

You could consider Galmet Ironise Rust Converter and Sealer - galmet.com.au - Ironize - which I've found to be quite effective. It doesn't prevent rust on clean metal but converts any existing rust to a black chelate compound ready for painting -

**dullbird** · 19th May 2010, 05:37 PM

Thanks Bunjeel

Looks good any idea of cost?

**Distortion** · 19th May 2010, 05:45 PM

I've used a combination of Ranex Rustbuster followed by penatrol with a fair bit of success on but it does seem to need to be reapplied every year or so

I don't know how well these kind of products would work for something you want to only do once

Cheers
Rob

**dullbird** · 19th May 2010, 05:47 PM

I will be painting it afterwards.

**Landy Smurf** · 19th May 2010, 06:08 PM

thanks for bringing this up dullbird i am also wondering about this.is it worth doing the chassis before you paint or do you just use a primer

**peterg1001** · 19th May 2010, 06:13 PM

There's a fair bit in the literature which suggets that rust converter is not an overly good approach. Essentially, you're painting on phosphoric acid, which should convert some or all of the rust (ferric oxide) to ferric phosphate.

The concern is that there may be some phosphoric acid left behind, and the adhesion qualities of the ferric phosphate may be limited.

My experience is that mechanical removal of as much rust as possible gives the best results (and I accept that some areas are not sufficiently accessible), followed by a coat of red oxide primer, followed by 2 coats of enamel.

I would recommend White Knight red oxide primer and Killrust enamel, but that's a subjective opinion.

Chassis black is an inferior product, designed for short term beautification not long term protection.

You might consider hiring a 15cfm compressor (it'll need to be petrol driven) for a day (say $75), and buying a sand blaster gun from Super Cheap. They do a nice one with a built in container for about $45.

For $120 and a days work, you'll get a much better outcome than using rust converter.

Peter

**BMKal** · 19th May 2010, 06:57 PM

Lou,

As Peter has said above, traditional phosphoric acid based rust converters often leave a slimy finish which following paint applications may not adhere to effectively. I have experienced this myself on more than one occasion.

I also agree with Peter's recommendation of physical removal of most of the rust, followed by an application of red oxide primer before applying your final paint coat/s.

Recently I came across a product called Metal Fix, put out by Phoenix Paints. This is now being used pretty extensively in the mining industry around here and I have been told that it works better then anything else that they have tried. Basically, it is a rust converter and red oxide coating in one - after application it dries with exactly the same finish as red oxide, providing a well primed surface for following coats. It is claimed to be non-toxic when dry, and also to have fire retardant properties.

They recommend that you only remove major rust (flakes / bubbles etc) and leave surface rust in place, as the compound needs some rust on the metal to work effectively. You should also leave for at least 4 days before applying your paint over the top of it (I've been leaving it for a week).

The verandah uprights at the back of our house are drill steels (common building material in mining towns). Since buying this house about 20 years ago, I have tried all types of methods to get rid of the rust in these poles and paint them. Prior to using this product, the rust has always come back through the paint not long after applying it, and that has been after taking back to shiny metal with an angle grinder, using various rust converters, killrust paint - you name it, I've tried it.

Since I've used Metal Fix (I even read and followed the instructions), and painted the poles with an enamel paint after a week, the poles have finally stayed clean, the same colour as the rest of the house, with no sign of the rust returning. OK - it's only been 6 months so far, but every other method I have tried showed rust coming back through within weeks.

Anyway - I'm sold on the stuff and have since been using it on quite a few other jobs, including repairs / mods to my two trailers. I bought it at a local paint shop (proper paint shop - not Bunnings) and it costs $50 per litre. So far I've used two litres. When you first open the pot, it looks like a solid lump or red oxide coloured puty with a small amout of clear liquid on top (and it will look like this every time you leave the pot for more than a couple of days). All you have to do is stir it vigorously with a rod for a couple of minutes and it quickly goes fluid. Very easy to apply and washes out of your brush with water.

I'll try posting a link to their web-site below (I'm no expert at this).

Phoenix Paints Painting Supplies Perth, WA - Manufacturers of Quality Paints & Protective Coatings - Paint Products Perth, Australia

Hope this helps.

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