Thread: Rust converter

Originally Posted by chazza

I had my chassis hot-dipped but there was no distortion at all. I suspect chassis that have distorted may have had thinned parts from rust on them.

What sort of problems do you expect at repair time?
<snip>

Perentie chassis are galvanised, but they are dipped while attached to a jig!

However as you say repair is grinding off the zinc, welding and painting with something. A bit like steel farm gates, you can always see where the welding and Galmet has been applied and if it worries you, then you spend a day every couple of years walking around the farm with a wire brush and a tin of Galmet spray.

the warping is often dependant on the galvanisers, the temp of the bath and how they process. I have seen brand new gal trailers where you can see the warp across the box. It's all a quality control thing.

G'day Folks

Did I miss something? as I can't find any reference of Peter powder coating his chassis !, that is one process that I would certainly not recommend, as we have a *****brand dog trailer for our dogs which is severly rusted both on the outside(stonechips) and inside(claw scratches) and short of totally stripping, and sandblasting, this vehicle is virtually unrepairable $4K up the spout, they look lovely when new, but!!!!!!!


cheers

Originally Posted by UncleHo

Did I miss something? as I can't find any reference of Peter powder coating his chassis !, that is one process that I would certainly not recommend, as we have a *****brand dog trailer for our dogs which is severly rusted both on the outside(stonechips) and inside(claw scratches)

I think you missed the link Kevin - See Fixing the chassis.

Want to hear today's news? Completely irrelevant to the topic, but what the hell . . .

I got my starter motor back from Kevin Baker, miraculously refurbished from a 2M100 to an M40. Installed it, started up again, all was well - until I heard the rattling sound.

One of the exhaust manifold studs holding the exhaust flange had pulled out last time I pulled the exhaust off, and I had to re-tap the stud hole to a bigger size, and re-install the exhaust. As a result, the exhaust was now touching the side of the chassis, and rattling.

I figured I could re-align things by jiggling the exhaust flange, so I had a go. Well, well. Another stud pulled out of the exhaust flange. I went off and had a fit of depression for an hour or so, then had another look. It looks as if there's a hairline crack along the edge of the front stud hole in the manifold, the one that goes all the way through. Bad news. There's a possibility of helicoiling the stud holes, but given that two studs have pulled out I'm not game to rely on it. So I've ordered a new manifold from LRSeries, all I have to do now is stop work for another couple of weeks until it arrives.

I had planned to put the bulkhead on this weekend, once I was sure the engine was going perfectly - I'm not game to install anything until I'm sure the engine is fine. At least it's easy to get at now, to resolve any minor difficulties that might arise.

To fill in the time I now had available, I installed the clutch slave cylinder. It took about an hour, of which 50 minutes was installing the split pin into the gearbox side pin which holds the connecting sleeve. If you wanted to design something that was really, really hard to maintain, where would you look? Solihull, that's where.

I also had my third go at stopping the transfer box sump cover leaking. I know, it's made of special porous steel invented at Solihull to let the gears breath, and has a minor disadvantage of leaking like a sieve. If there were four bolts up each side, with the outer two close to the corners, there would be no problems. As it is, this time I've cut a gasket from 3mm neoprene cork, added a tube of silicone gasket goo, and am now waiting to see what happens.

Thanks for listening . . . it's been a bad day.

Peter

Originally Posted by peterg1001

I think you missed the link Kevin - See Fixing the chassis.

Want to hear today's news? Completely irrelevant to the topic, but what the hell . . .

I got my starter motor back from Kevin Baker, miraculously refurbished from a 2M100 to an M40. Installed it, started up again, all was well - until I heard the rattling sound.

One of the exhaust manifold studs holding the exhaust flange had pulled out last time I pulled the exhaust off, and I had to re-tap the stud hole to a bigger size, and re-install the exhaust. As a result, the exhaust was now touching the side of the chassis, and rattling.

I figured I could re-align things by jiggling the exhaust flange, so I had a go. Well, well. Another stud pulled out of the exhaust flange. I went off and had a fit of depression for an hour or so, then had another look. It looks as if there's a hairline crack along the edge of the front stud hole in the manifold, the one that goes all the way through. Bad news. There's a possibility of helicoiling the stud holes, but given that two studs have pulled out I'm not game to rely on it. So I've ordered a new manifold from LRSeries, all I have to do now is stop work for another couple of weeks until it arrives.

I had planned to put the bulkhead on this weekend, once I was sure the engine was going perfectly - I'm not game to install anything until I'm sure the engine is fine. At least it's easy to get at now, to resolve any minor difficulties that might arise.

To fill in the time I now had available, I installed the clutch slave cylinder. It took about an hour, of which 50 minutes was installing the split pin into the gearbox side pin which holds the connecting sleeve. If you wanted to design something that was really, really hard to maintain, where would you look? Solihull, that's where.

I also had my third go at stopping the transfer box sump cover leaking. I know, it's made of special porous steel invented at Solihull to let the gears breath, and has a minor disadvantage of leaking like a sieve. If there were four bolts up each side, with the outer two close to the corners, there would be no problems. As it is, this time I've cut a gasket from 3mm neoprene cork, added a tube of silicone gasket goo, and am now waiting to see what happens.

Thanks for listening . . . it's been a bad day.

Peter

To continue the sidetrack: sympathies, mate but I'm a bit puzzled as my S2A has a 12-bolt transfer case sump plate - 4 on each side and 2 on each end (is this standard?) which looks like stamped 2-3mm mild steel and it never leaks. Last time I pulled it off I put back with slight bow in it so the corners would keep tight as the bolts are about 40mm from each corner. Also I prefer a rosin-based gasket sealer such as the Loctite Aviation range. Maybe it's a personal thing but I really dislike silicon sealers as they're usually applied in great excess and finish up sliding off the metal into the guts of the machinery - and they never work for long.

cheers