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Thread: Rusted door top bolts.

  1. #11
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    Get some of this stuff, the best thing ever invented since the battery drill.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by ezyrama View Post
    Get some of this stuff, the best thing ever invented since the battery drill.
    Agree, but neverseize is much more expensive than grease.

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  3. #13
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    Yep been using neverseize for years good stuff..
    You've got to undo the old rusted stuff first though.

    Just of interest i took the best sample of door seal with me
    to our local wrecker / rare spares to day and they had
    about 5m of Land Rover door seal for $8/m .
    Part no 39-499R.
    They said they would get more in.

    Now to sort out the metal strips and rivets.

    Still working on the door tops.

    Andrew

  4. #14
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    That is the currently available door seal, you can also get it from All four X 4 in Kotara, they sell it by the roll which is sufficient to do a complete door. However it is not the same as the original.

    The original was shaped to fit the bulge at the waist and already had the metal strips already bonded/moulded inside with the holes pre drilled and counter sunk.

    The rivits should be mushroom headed rivets but most people merely use pop rivets.

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  5. #15
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    The old seals had mushroom rivets.
    I am thinking of using aluminium rivets with less
    pressure than steel ones to stop the rubber
    bulging out.


    Andrew

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKW View Post
    The old seals had mushroom rivets.
    I am thinking of using aluminium rivets with less
    pressure than steel ones to stop the rubber
    bulging out.
    Andrew
    Yes they were aluminium "mushroom headed" solid rivets, the type you upset into place using a hammer snap and buckling bar or a pneumatic hammer with a special shaped tool and the buckling bar.

    If you are really kean wanting a good seal without necessarily caring about originality, then you can cut off the lip in the door jam and use pinch-weld seal or even Defender pinch-weld door seals.

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  7. #17
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    I want to keep it as close to original as possible.
    I have most of the seal i need just need new metal
    strips to go in it.
    I have used mushroom rivets in leather before.
    But i do not have the tools at the moment to use them now.
    Was going to get aluminium pop rivets, but will ask about
    the outher ones.
    We have a good bolt shop in town.

    When i get my daughter to show me how i will put some photos up.
    Andrew

  8. #18
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    Success, got them off finally. Not too bad condition
    had to cut a new thread on one bolt.
    plenty of copper grease and back on.

    Thanks for all help.


    Andrew

  9. #19
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKW View Post
    Success, got them off finally. Not too bad condition
    had to cut a new thread on one bolt.
    plenty of copper grease and back on.

    Thanks for all help.


    Andrew
    The threads may be either UNF or BSF - mine came with one door top each!

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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