and a bucket load easier to install cause its lighter and better shaped...
the series starter I could just manage as a 2 hand job.
the tdi is a single hander, much easier.
draws about 2/3 the current for the same effect.
Printable View
and a bucket load easier to install cause its lighter and better shaped...
the series starter I could just manage as a 2 hand job.
the tdi is a single hander, much easier.
draws about 2/3 the current for the same effect.
Yeah, cheers Groucho, I got confused with the two 6v batteries in series. Thanks to all for your inputs too. So the switch gear from a S3 should be OK then too? I'm trying to get a new ignition key/switch from an S3 but I was told it wouldn't be any good. Sounds like bollocks to me now. I have many more questions but this will tie me over for a while.Quote:
Originally Posted by groucho
:):):)
The diesel ignition switch has a position for glow plugs, so a petrol s3 ignition switch won't work the same. Also depends if yours is key start (later 2a/3) or button start, but I don't know specific differences there.
Would you be able to suggest where I could buy a replacement sprag clutch for less than the cost of a whole starter motor?Quote:
Originally Posted by JDNSW
Aaron.
At least you can probably buy one - may be difficcult for the Series Diesel one!Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron IIA
John
On this occasion the above information is incorrect. Some Series Land Rovers and 101" Land Rover forward control are 24V, but mostly those started life as a military radio vehicle.Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron IIA
True. How about all original factory specified, original engineering manufactured, civillian specification Land Rovers?Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies
Aaron.
The FFR's came out of the Land Rover factories 24V, that would make them OEM.Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron IIA