The V8 is suitable for leadfree petrol without any modifications or addatives.Quote:
Originally Posted by chazza
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The V8 is suitable for leadfree petrol without any modifications or addatives.Quote:
Originally Posted by chazza
Swap the seats. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by drifter
Too late now.Quote:
Originally Posted by d@rk51d3
Well, tonight the timing cover came off and what a surprise was waiting for me!
The tensioner was on a strange angle and had been for some time by the look of the teeth on the idler.
Rooted is a word that springs to mind.
So - I took it all off and manually assembled it - and, for the love of me, I cannot get it back into that strange angle. It sits perfectly straight when I put it back in - so I tossed the bits into a bag for later evaluation and have proceeded to remove the camshaft.
I learned the RTFM thing tonight! Although it should be RTFM CAREFULLY!
I must have skipped past the bit in the manual where it said "Withdraw the distributor drive shaft then remove the locating grub screw and withdraw the vertical driveshaft gear."
But I found it, eventually.
I am now looking for an easy way to get rid of the oil in the galleries under the camshaft before rotating the block.
I may take the sump off first and position it so that the oil pours into the sump...
use a vacuum brake bleeder.. dont got one?
go get one before you decide to tackle the clutch or the brakes...
trust me. The things you'll find it useful for..
and if you get a long dead gas bottle you can set that up as an expension tank so you can suck down sumps, suck the oil out of the drain tray without moving it.
errr - thanks Dave.
I have an oil suction gun that I had forgotten about. I now remember it didn't work on the 4Runner gearbox, either. So I shoved a handful of waste rags in there. All done.
Sump off.
Engine rotated.
The drive shaft for the oil pump was a surprise (as it fell out).
just having a look around in there before pulling out the oil pump and then the crankshaft. I notice there is a little bit of sideways play on the big ends - no 'up and down' movement that I can detect but about 1mm of fore and aft play.
Is it possible to shoot the pistons complete with conrods out through the top of the bore or do they have to come back through the bottom of the bore?
I also notice that the bigends are stamped 1, 2, 3 & 4.
'They' were taking no chances!
unbolt the big end with the pot at BDC and it will just about fall out of its own accord. I generally noose the waist of the big end before pushing it out, ally piston meeting concrete floor usually results in chipped piston.
Thanks
2 out of the 4 are out!
I'll get the last 2 and then it's time for a cleanup, dinner and bed.
The pistons and conrods must exit through the head side of the block. If you try and bypass the ridge at the top of the cylinder bore by going through the sump side, you will get half way out and then get stuck.
Aaron.
Sounds like the voice of experience there :BigThumb:
Pistons did not want to go up due to carbon lip building up in bore above the highest point that the rings travel. So I thought that I would remove the pistons by going down. Was working fine until the piston fouled on a bit of block reinforcing. The piston was not totally out of the bore, but some of the rings were. Could not go further down, so had to go back up. Now faced the problem of compressing the rings by hand, in a minimal clearance situation. So from experience, remove the carbon ridge, and remove the pistons from the top.
Aaron.