Brake shoe orientation

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Originally Posted by JDNSW

Back in Australia on Wednesday, but not home yet - and getting home is a bit problematic right at the moment - the river I need to cross to get home is probably about 3m above the bridge. There are ways round, but I need information on them before I try it. Hope to head for home on Sunday.

John

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I hope you find a safe way through.

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Originally Posted by drifter

Still waiting for the block to be done. He got the pistons today.

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Are you going the performance route and getting the block tunnel bored and the pistons and rods all balanced to the nearest thousandth of a gram?

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Originally Posted by garrycol

Are you going the performance route and getting the block tunnel bored and the pistons and rods all balanced to the nearest thousandth of a gram?

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Yeah, why not? :D

Nah, I am actually currently going the "why doesn't he stop taking on more work than he can handle and just meet the timelines he quoted" route.

The other day I was cleaning up some 11" brakes I'm going to transplant on to my IIA SWB. The thought just struck me...

The 109 has two cylinders per drum on the front!

This means that to orientate the bleed nipples in the right way to bleed air out more easily, they probably /should/ be turned differently (at a guess?), although it shouldn't affect "performance" in the long run.

I found this picture...

that diagram is wrong.

the pistons run horizontally, if they didnt you would never get one of the pistons to bleed.

there is an additional trap to fall into on the rear and thats the orientation of the shoes. there is a leading and trailing shoe and a left and right backing plate.

mixing them up will get you brakes that work but then wont adjust correctly once the shoes are APX 50% worn or about 20% if your drums are near max oversize.

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Originally Posted by Mudpiggy

The other day I was cleaning up some 11" brakes I'm going to transplant on to my IIA SWB. The thought just struck me...

The 109 has two cylinders per drum on the front!

This means that to orientate the bleed nipples in the right way to bleed air out more easily, they probably /should/ be turned differently (at a guess?), although it shouldn't affect "performance" in the long run.

I found this picture...

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Thanks for that, but... as Dave says, it's not right. For one thing, the back plate won't bolt on in that orientation (hub holes are in the wrong place) ;)

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Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

that diagram is wrong.

the pistons run horizontally, if they didnt you would never get one of the pistons to bleed.

there is an additional trap to fall into on the rear and thats the orientation of the shoes. there is a leading and trailing shoe and a left and right backing plate.

mixing them up will get you brakes that work but then wont adjust correctly once the shoes are APX 50% worn or about 20% if your drums are near max oversize.

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oh - thanks - I haven't got to the rear yet and didn't realise there were leading and trailing shoes. I did know about the left and right backing plate - the front ones are the same - oriented for one particular side.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...e-warning.html


that'll give you a heads up.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

that diagram is wrong.

the pistons run horizontally, if they didnt you would never get one of the pistons to bleed.

there is an additional trap to fall into on the rear and thats the orientation of the shoes. there is a leading and trailing shoe and a left and right backing plate.

mixing them up will get you brakes that work but then wont adjust correctly once the shoes are APX 50% worn or about 20% if your drums are near max oversize.

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Hey Dave
Got Smeg going, is the brake pad orientation the same for the SWB S3??

umm no.. if its got pads then its got disc and theres only one way they go together

yep shoe orientation is the same. the shoes are different being smaller if you have the 10inch brakes as opposed to the 11's in OEM spec.

the one thing i've heard of for simplifying your life with 11" TLS brakes is to run the hydraulic feed to the lower slave first and then link up to the top one, rather than in the standard landrover pattern...

air rises and this sounds correct for easing brake bleeding...

i've used 11" rear brake backplates on the front of my 88" which meant all i had to do was crimp the flexi's when swapping from the 10" system and minimal bleeding, no servo at present and nicely powerful brakes ...

still useless after wading tho [bigrolf]