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Thread: Brake shoe orientation

  1. #11
    drifter Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    Back in Australia on Wednesday, but not home yet - and getting home is a bit problematic right at the moment - the river I need to cross to get home is probably about 3m above the bridge. There are ways round, but I need information on them before I try it. Hope to head for home on Sunday.

    John
    I hope you find a safe way through.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by drifter View Post
    Still waiting for the block to be done. He got the pistons today.
    Are you going the performance route and getting the block tunnel bored and the pistons and rods all balanced to the nearest thousandth of a gram?
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  3. #13
    drifter Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol View Post
    Are you going the performance route and getting the block tunnel bored and the pistons and rods all balanced to the nearest thousandth of a gram?
    Yeah, why not?

    Nah, I am actually currently going the "why doesn't he stop taking on more work than he can handle and just meet the timelines he quoted" route.

  4. #14
    Mudpiggy Guest
    The other day I was cleaning up some 11" brakes I'm going to transplant on to my IIA SWB. The thought just struck me...

    The 109 has two cylinders per drum on the front!

    This means that to orientate the bleed nipples in the right way to bleed air out more easily, they probably /should/ be turned differently (at a guess?), although it shouldn't affect "performance" in the long run.

    I found this picture...
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #15
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    that diagram is wrong.

    the pistons run horizontally, if they didnt you would never get one of the pistons to bleed.

    there is an additional trap to fall into on the rear and thats the orientation of the shoes. there is a leading and trailing shoe and a left and right backing plate.

    mixing them up will get you brakes that work but then wont adjust correctly once the shoes are APX 50% worn or about 20% if your drums are near max oversize.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  6. #16
    drifter Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Mudpiggy View Post
    The other day I was cleaning up some 11" brakes I'm going to transplant on to my IIA SWB. The thought just struck me...

    The 109 has two cylinders per drum on the front!

    This means that to orientate the bleed nipples in the right way to bleed air out more easily, they probably /should/ be turned differently (at a guess?), although it shouldn't affect "performance" in the long run.

    I found this picture...
    Thanks for that, but... as Dave says, it's not right. For one thing, the back plate won't bolt on in that orientation (hub holes are in the wrong place)

    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    that diagram is wrong.

    the pistons run horizontally, if they didnt you would never get one of the pistons to bleed.

    there is an additional trap to fall into on the rear and thats the orientation of the shoes. there is a leading and trailing shoe and a left and right backing plate.

    mixing them up will get you brakes that work but then wont adjust correctly once the shoes are APX 50% worn or about 20% if your drums are near max oversize.
    oh - thanks - I haven't got to the rear yet and didn't realise there were leading and trailing shoes. I did know about the left and right backing plate - the front ones are the same - oriented for one particular side.

  7. #17
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    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    that diagram is wrong.

    the pistons run horizontally, if they didnt you would never get one of the pistons to bleed.

    there is an additional trap to fall into on the rear and thats the orientation of the shoes. there is a leading and trailing shoe and a left and right backing plate.

    mixing them up will get you brakes that work but then wont adjust correctly once the shoes are APX 50% worn or about 20% if your drums are near max oversize.
    Hey Dave
    Got Smeg going, is the brake pad orientation the same for the SWB S3??

  9. #19
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    umm no.. if its got pads then its got disc and theres only one way they go together

    yep shoe orientation is the same. the shoes are different being smaller if you have the 10inch brakes as opposed to the 11's in OEM spec.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  10. #20
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    the one thing i've heard of for simplifying your life with 11" TLS brakes is to run the hydraulic feed to the lower slave first and then link up to the top one, rather than in the standard landrover pattern...

    air rises and this sounds correct for easing brake bleeding...

    i've used 11" rear brake backplates on the front of my 88" which meant all i had to do was crimp the flexi's when swapping from the 10" system and minimal bleeding, no servo at present and nicely powerful brakes ...

    still useless after wading tho

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