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As John said, get yourself a parts book. How else would you know that you've got the correct track rod? There are four different ones you can put on,however only one of them is the correct one.
Series 1
Series 2/2a pendant type ball joint
Series 2a non pendant type ball joint
all with recessed thread but the rods are different length, and
Series 2a/3 ?? with the thread to the end.(I don't have one of those in front of me, so I can't comment on the length.
W.
I agree that parts books can be very useful, however, in the context of your reply my Land Rover S1 and S3 genuine parts books are no use whatsoever.Quote:
Originally Posted by B.S.F.Nut
They show the parts and the numbers but no mention is made of length or the thread configuration. The S2 book helpfully mentions length and the type of ball joints, but it doesn't explain what a "pendant type" ball joint is, or what it looks like. The track rod on my S3 has probably been replaced as it has threads all the way to the end but I have no way of telling how long it should be :(
Can you tell me what a pendant ball joint is please?
Cheers Charlie
Pendant type ball joint is when the ball joint is inserted from below.The steering lever is mounted on top of the swivel pin housing.
Non pendant from the top,lever at the bottom.
W.
Pendant type: the series 1, series 2 and early series 2a had the steering levers bolted to the top of the swivel housing. i.e. the levers hanging down from the top like a pendulum.
Non-Pendant type: The vast majority of series 2a and all series 3 had the steering levers bolted to the bottom of the swivel housing.
I got my radiator hoses sorted and fitted a new 82DegC thermostat. Filled the system with coolant, rather than plain water that was in there before, and used the S2A a couple of times to go to the Park and Ride for work last week. Yesterday was a 36DecC day so I visited my brother in the hills. Plugging up Greenmount hill on a hot afternoon was the ultimate test for the system and all went well. The temp gauge made it to about 2/3 on the dial at its peak and came down nicely to around 1/2 easily and then normal running around 1/3. I'm very happy:D.
I have ordered ball joints for the steering and a handbrake kit so hopefully get those fitted during the Xmas break and be set to roll in the new year. Then I can start playing with the new 80" S1 I just bought:cool:.
that's gold
I guess being used as a "roof tent display case" in a shop for two years hasn't done the battery any good. First time I had to drive at night due to a late meeting I had to attend didn't work out quite like it should have.
I had to stop at the dreaded Macca's on the way home, as my wife informed me I long missed dinner, and the Landy wouldn't start after I came out of the sty ... barely turned over:(. I had jumper leads of course so just had to wait until I spotted a car that I knew had a battery on the rhs of the engine bay ... or better yet it was a Land Cruiser with a battery on each side:angel:.
While I was waiting with the bonnet up I was asked by a passerby if they could take a photo of the S2A. They were laughing and laughing at seeing such a vehicle:D. They were foreigners:confused:.
So next job is to check the alternator (one of the receipts in the file that came with the car was for a high output alternator being fitted) and probably a new battery after a load check.
...and so it starts???
I have a couple of new questions coming but I'll have to get some photo's to support them.
I have replaced the dodgy ball joint on the left hand end of the drag link arm and improved the driving experience by half. The other half will be more troublesome. I have discovered that the arrangement to convert to hydraulic ram power steering changes the drag link substantially. It no longer has a simple ball joint where it attaches to the steering relay lower arm. It is a weird device that slides side to side to act on a hydraulic device at the drag link's right hand end. This joint is completely stuffed. I'll get decent photo's tomorrow now that I've de-greased everything and I can see it better, but here's the "pre-cleaning" photo:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...2010/12/58.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...2010/12/59.jpg
I did get onto something else though. I really didn't much like the arrangement with the bullbar and the three spotlights mounted on it. The Landy already has four round headlights, the two Hi/Lo lamps on the front guards and two Hi only lamps mounted in the front panel. It then also had two rectangular spotlights mounted on a small cross bar of the bullbar with a 4" round spotlight between them in the centre. A confusion of lights and styles.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...2010/12/60.jpg
So I recently bought a sand-blaster from my local Malz store and was keen to try it out. The bullbar was painted silver and I wanted to change that to black. Sand blasting off the silver revealed the bar is galvanised, so that was a nice surprise. I happened to have some left-over "chassis black" from dressing up the Patrol so that went on the standard bumper as well as the bullbar. (It took a bit of thought as to whether to paint the standard galvanised bumper bar but I figured that it has already been modified by a previous owner with holes drilled in various places and it was a Britparts one so not the original one. It also kind of loses it's relevance with a car that's so modified as this one ... I wouldn't paint the S1 bumper!). Finally, to "round it out" nicely (pardon the pun) I fitted a pair of 140mm round Narva spot/driving lights left over from a previous GQ Nissan a few years ago. To get these in I did have to remove a small diameter cross member of the bullbar. (I did that before the sandblasting and painting obviously).
Looks okay I reckon:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/04/536.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/12/996.jpg
I hope to mount my UHF tomorrow and sort some tyres out soon to replace the very marginal ones on there at the moment.
Cheers for now
John B
going by your maths in relation to your diffs, i'd say you're correct in deducing that you have 3.54:1 ratio diffs fitted, which will give you an error at your speedo head as it is driven from the back end of the gearbox...
a possible correction that is used in G.B. is to find a speedo from an old Triumph car (probably the Triumph 2000/2500) with approximately 1100-1140tpm (Turns Per Minute), your standard speedo i think will have about 1400tpm
it might be worth you asking for verification on the speedo tpm on the Series 2 Club forum
hope that helps
p.s.
a good looking truck :thumbsup:
That's worth a thought. In the mean time, now that I've run wit a GPS a few times I've discovered the conversion is simple it's not funny. I just double the number showing on the speedo in mph and that's my actual speed in kph, within a couple of kph anyway. So an indicated 45mph is actually 90kph. Too easy huh!:) It's reasonably consistent between 20mph/40kph and 50mph/100kph (by which time it's fair screaming and I don't spend any time at that speed!:eek:).Quote:
Originally Posted by NiteMare
Cheers
John B