Thread: '70 IIA Wagon questions

Originally Posted by NiteMare

looking at that step my guess is that some previous owner made it out of some old piece of office furniture, i very much doubt any reputable company would make/sell something that you'd weld to the outrigger and the sill like that one appears to be....

when that outrigger rots away you'll have a pig of a job seperating the three bits from what i can see in those photos, even changing the bulkhead foot could become a major difficulty

i might be wrong tho i dunno

You may very well be correct on the furniture history. It would have been large furniture though as the square section is pretty big and the steel isn't the thin stuff most furniture is framed from. It does seem extreme for a company to make something that welds to the outrigger so I suspect it is "home made". Certainly the welding is "home made" ... or maybe "chicken made".

I'm sure that when the outrigger rots away, the side-step will be the least of my problems. Simply unbolt it from the rear and it'll easily cut away with the outrigger.

Originally Posted by UncleHo

Hope this is of some help to you

Thanks for all your information ... and interest. Hopefully this week I'll be picking up another 1970 S2A as a donor that has original 2.25 LR 4 cylinder engine. Maybe one day I'll revert the rig back to a standard LR one with the donor parts. (Probably only if the 186 Holden motor carks it as it goes pretty well with it in there). More importantly for now the donor has standard Land Rover 16" wheels and a standard Drag Link arm ... and a four spoke steering wheel. I'm going to remove the power steering as I really don't like the set-up of it and it uses a modified Drag arm that I'm suspicious of. I think it will be a better truck for reverting closer to standard.

Cheers
John B

G'day JayBoRover

If it is a late 2a, with the 3 spoke rubber dished wheel it will be a direct changeover, the larger 16 inch steering wheel is standard and with 7.50 x 16 tyres you will find that the steering effort is quite low,if the rest of the front end and steering system is up to scratch and swivel pins preload (12-14lbs 2 steering lever eye, fill swivel hubs with 80/90 oil NOT grease) and wheel alignment is OK, (toe-in 1.2 to 2.4mm) {with conventional X ply tyres} OR .000mm (zero toe-in with Radials @35psi) then driving on good highways should be achieved one handed

NOTE: standard wheel rims for 2a LWB 5.5inch rims,should be stamped with the P/n 272309 in between the stud holes

All Landrovers have 3 spoke s/wheels as standard ib both the flat sprung type (early) and the dished rubber type 1967-onwards


cheers

So I headed out early this morning to pick up my new donor S2a. It's a 1970 S2A, so same year and model as my truck, and was only a few km's from my place.




I'll post some more pictures of some of the details later. I'll also tell the story of how I came to rush the purchase following an interesting time with my daily driver S2a (must come up with a name for it one of these days) the other night.

Cheers for now.
John B

G'day JayBoRover

Why not call your daily driver "JayBo"

Nice straight looking 2a parts jobbie,going by the horizontal fittment of the park/flashers it is a UK build vehicle,and not a aust CKD unit, may even have a Land-Rover Sulihull oval on the grille, it's got a genuine series 2/2a/3 exterior sunvisor just a little "Tin Worm" in the firewall
but looks like a good buy,wheels look like standard 2a in Limestone,I would be interested in the part numbers stamped on them if it is an import as the R272309 number I quoted you was for the Aust ROK branded wheels, and it is a very long time since I looked at the wheels of a new ex-UK imported 2a


cheers

Originally Posted by JayBoRover

So I headed out early this morning to pick up my new donor S2a. It's a 1970 S2A, so same year and model as my truck, ...
Cheers for now.
John B

1970? With headlights on the radiator support, and wipers mounted on the windscreen not the bulkhead? Might be a 1970 model, but if it is, a few bits are from other models!

John

A quick note and a few snaps of the new donor car. The chassis data plate was handed to me by the previous owner as it had been removed from the bulkhead. No. 25308881B. Checking the chassis number on the chassis itself will have to wait a wee while and I suspect will take some effort due to the rust, dirt and oil everywhere.

There is also a small data plate (photo's to come) with a logo "Produced by Pressed Metal Corp. Ltd. Sydney" and "Body No. LRL 1017 4" and "Ser No. 10910174". I have not seen the second label before so any ideas anyone?

On to the photo's snapped tonight. The bit I liked most is the steering wheel:

It is in exceptional condition and should clean up a treat. I wish I could find one as nice for my 80" S1. (I harbour a secret hope that this one will go on the S1 seeing as I don't think it's supposed to go on an S2a).

To address UncleHo's query on the wheel part numbers, there are two wheels with 231601 and two wheels with 272309.



While on the wheels, I found these adorning the front wheel hubs:

They look to be in good condition from the outside. Can't wait to pull them off and apart and see what they're like inside. If they are okay I might throw them on "DeeDee" (Daily Driver - a name at last!).

The Land Rover oval on the grille is not a Solihull one though:


To finish off, just a couple of general snaps. The dash:


and a couple of the engine bay:



Now, the reason for the pressing purchase: I have been using "DeeDee" for a few weeks now as regular transport and have noticed a slow leak in a front tyre. Finally I removed the wheel and sprayed some soapy water over it to find not one but three leaks. One was a nail, one was a previous plug repair and one was just a small hole that I couldn't find anything in. I couldn't be bothered fixing three punctures when I knew I was going to change to standard LandRover 16" wheels and sell off the 15" Sunraysers without the bald tyres. So I refitted the wheel. I ran into some difficulties managing to catch up with the donor S2a (as it was locked away in a yard whose operating hours were very different to mine!) so things were dragging out. The other day I had to stop twice in one trip to top up the air as I was losing about 20psi per day. So when I got home one day I determined to fix at least one or two of the punctures.

The first repair went well (the nail) so I pressed on to attempt the previous repair that was leaking. I managed to removed the old repair, cleaned up the hole and then discovered that my tube of vulcanising fluid was actually full of non-vulcanising air. Dug out another tube to find it had also ruptured at some time and was now also gone.

So I quickly made a determined effort to contact the donor car owner and make it clear that I was to get access to the car for a look / collect or I'd find something else. So now I have a source of wheels that I can fit some of my 7.50R16 tyres to, turn my DeeDee into a quadrapod instead of a tripod as it's been in the carport for a few days, and get mobile again.

One funny thing though. I've been using the Nissan ute for the last couple of days. Today it was quite hot but I turned the air-con off - it didn't feel right! I wound the window down and put the fan on full speed but really wanted to open some vents under the windscreen. I also found the thing too damn quiet - I could hear myself think and it was scary! I think I might have caught the Series Land Rover ownership disease.

Cheers
John B

that steering wheel is the same as i have in my 1965 109 right down to the horn push, mine is all original (except i'm fitting a 200tdi)

Chassis number I believe is 1961-2. Just about everything else agrees to this being the case. Steering wheel I believe is the same as Series 1, so it should fit your 80". And as you say, is an exceptional example.

The PMC plate and body number plate are normal and confirm that it is an Australian assembled one. The position of the blinkers indicates they were a dealer or owner addition. Diana (Lotza-landies) may have delivery details for it.

Wheels P/N 231601 are swb ones 5" wide and unsuitable for a 109, 272309 are lwb, 5.5" wide.

John