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Thread: Petrol tanks and fillers and cap locks...

  1. #1
    drifter Guest

    Petrol tanks and fillers and cap locks...

    I dropped the petrol tank out of Fernando today.

    Two reasons:
    1. I wanted to leak test it
    2. I wanted to clean and paint it.

    To my surprise, I found the following:

    The metal part of the breather tube at the filler end was 'loose'. It appears to have cracked its weld.
    The metal part of the breather tube at the tank end was in the same condition.
    The metal part of the filler tube at the tank end was also in the same condition.


    I put it on trestles and filled it with water to discover:

    The bung leaks
    both seams on the lower edge of the tank leak.

    There is absolutely no rust in this tank - which is a shame.

    I have a tank in George that doesn't leak so I think I'll swap it over if it comes out easy enough and looks to be in good condition.

    I was already contemplating swapping over the filler from George because it has the metal tube that extends when filling and Fernando doesn't - and I can't swap the tube from one to the other alone because they have a different set of grooves for fitting...

    Now - a couple of questions...

    Is it worth getting the tank re-welded? I note they seem to have a replacement cost of around $220

    The locking mechanism for the petrol cap: do you mount it from the top or the bottom. Originally I mounted it at the bottom and it gives plenty of room to get the cap off (and makes it a one handed operation) but it stuck out a fair bit. Mounting it at the top is 'neater' but a bit more awkward in use. Which would you do and why?

    The bung. It was leaking. I removed it. It is brass. It has a big, beautiful copper washer - and its threads were packed with plumbers tape! What fix would you recommend?

    Thanks in advance...

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by drifter View Post
    The metal part of the breather tube at the filler end was 'loose'. It appears to have cracked its weld.
    The metal part of the breather tube at the tank end was in the same condition.
    The metal part of the filler tube at the tank end was also in the same condition.

    The bung leaks
    both seams on the lower edge of the tank leak.



    The bung. It was leaking. I removed it. It is brass. It has a big, beautiful copper washer - and its threads were packed with plumbers tape! What fix would you recommend?

    Thanks in advance...
    What about using one of the fuel tank sealers to stop the leaks at the seams, or get the joints re-soldered, which can be a bit tricky to do.

    The pipes should be able to be soldered in place; have you scratched yours to see if it is solder or welding at the join?

    Use Loctite High Pressure pipe sealant on the bung, for a very fast and permanent seal,

    Cheers Charlie

  3. #3
    drifter Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by chazza View Post
    What about using one of the fuel tank sealers to stop the leaks at the seams, or get the joints re-soldered, which can be a bit tricky to do.

    The pipes should be able to be soldered in place; have you scratched yours to see if it is solder or welding at the join?

    Use Loctite High Pressure pipe sealant on the bung, for a very fast and permanent seal,

    Cheers Charlie
    Thanks Charlie

    I have been trying to find POR-15 or it's equivalent in this town but no luck so far.

    Yes, it does look like solder around the pipes and, in my snotty past, I have done a fair bit of soldering... Mainly for the big stuff, copper pipes and guttering as a 'plumbers helper' and a huge amount of it as my original trade (where we fixed electronics, instead of replacing the bits).

    Hmmm - I may just make up a jig to support them and give it a go.

    I'll go look up the parts manuals re the swapping of the external filler assembly. If they have the same part number, I'll do that.

    Any thoughts on whether the 'lock' should swing from the top or bottom?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    G'day Drifter,
    I have heard that Redcote is a very good sealer as well.

    Soldering may not work on the seams because of the difficulty of getting it clean. Try a big-mumma soldering iron on the pipes, keeping naked flames well-away from the tank of course.

    I have just looked at my S3 and the cap lock is on the bottom - it seems to be as good a place as any

    Cheers Charlie

  5. #5
    drifter Guest
    Thanks Charlie

    No worries with gas on this one - it has been open and fully venting for over 3 years - and a belly full of water will help when the time comes

    Agree on the seam difficulty - there is a particular bottled flux that would make it work - I can't remember the name but I'll know it if I see it. I may go a googling.

  6. #6
    landy821 Guest

    Re: Tank soldering

    `The liquid flux you may be looking for is ' Baker's Soldering Fluid"
    another product which may work is ;LaCo Soft soldering Paste.
    Cheers and good luck.

  7. #7
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    Cap lock on bottom, its a real pain when its on the top and keeps flipping down when filling up!

  8. #8
    drifter Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by landy821 View Post
    `The liquid flux you may be looking for is ' Baker's Soldering Fluid"
    another product which may work is ;LaCo Soft soldering Paste.
    Cheers and good luck.
    Green plastic bottle? Thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by isuzutoo-eh View Post
    Cap lock on bottom, its a real pain when its on the top and keeps flipping down when filling up!
    Thanks

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by drifter View Post
    I have been trying to find POR-15 or it's equivalent in this town but no luck so far.

    Yes, it does look like solder around the pipes and, in my snotty past, I have done a fair bit of soldering... Mainly for the big stuff, copper pipes and guttering as a 'plumbers helper' and a huge amount of it as my original trade (where we fixed electronics, instead of replacing the bits).
    Check out Cleaning up the fuel tank for details on a POR-15 equvalent for the tank.

    The whole tank is soldered together, don't even think about putting enough heat into it to braze it, it'll fall apart.

    Use a wire brush on an angle grinder, that'll get it clean enough to solder, and get some flux from aplumbers supplier - a serious one like Reece.

    Peter

  10. #10
    drifter Guest


    Thanks guys - it's all done and looking great. Many thanks for the help.

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