Bleeding Brakes!!!

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Originally Posted by Col.Coleman

It will be in the adjustment.

If you have the lines clamped, only two shoe's will move. As you release the clamps more shoes start moving giving more pedal travel. If you are getting no bubbles, there are none.

Check your shoes. The rears are leading and trailing on each wheel. Where you put them makes a difference. Make sure snail cams operate the correct way and shoes are perpendicular to the drums. Lift wheel off the ground and adjust snail cam until it stops the wheel dead, then back off 2 clicks.

Just one incorrectly adjusted shoe out of 8 can make woeful brakes.

CC

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I don't really get what you mean. The pads are fixed in position the only adjustment is the snail and because they are new pads and drums 2 clicks on and they are hard on. Springs are on the right way. you say were you put them makes a difference but you cant move them?

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Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

were the cylinders full before you fitted them up?

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No they were empty do you think there could be air trapped in the cylinders?

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Originally Posted by custommade

No they were empty do you think there could be air trapped in the cylinders?

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You're running out of other options and it is good practice to do when installing new cylinders.

Just to check the fromt cylinders are the 1 1/4 inch and the rears are 1 inch right so big cylinder in the front?

OK so I've gone through the motions again today.

Cranked all the snails out so the drums are all locked up

Put the easy bleed pressure bleeder on (presser in the reservoir and feed fluid) and bled at all the unions and cylinders. Result sponge.

Clamped off all three hoses rock hard pedal.
So bled one at a time taking off and then replacing each clamp. result sponge.

It seems leaving the front clamps on and removing the back ones results in a fairly good pedal, has a little play, could put it down to flex in the rubber hose.

Soooooo.... The problem seems to be mostly the front and at the wheels not in the lines.

Could it be the pads flexing and not making proper contact with the drums. I don't really think so cause they are adjusted out hard up to he drums.

But I cant see how I could still have air in them. I have bled them the old school way as well(pump the pedal) and bled them the old waywith the ezybleed on too.

Whats going on!!!!

Bleeding will be more effective with the shoes clamped together so that the pistons in the cylinder are as close together as possible - this minimises the space that can get air in it in the cylinder. But if, as you say, the shoes are new, there will be little difference, although this "little" may be critical.

Have you tried reverse bleeding the front brakes? (Force fluid in the bleed nipple and out the master cylinder using an oil syringe).

John

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Originally Posted by JDNSW

Bleeding will be more effective with the shoes clamped together so that the pistons in the cylinder are as close together as possible - this minimises the space that can get air in it in the cylinder. But if, as you say, the shoes are new, there will be little difference, although this "little" may be critical.

Have you tried reverse bleeding the front brakes? (Force fluid in the bleed nipple and out the master cylinder using an oil syringe).

John

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I may have to give the reverse bleeding another go found it hard last time to get a good seal on every thing. Where do you get big syringes from?

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Originally Posted by custommade

I may have to give the reverse bleeding another go found it hard last time to get a good seal on every thing. Where do you get big syringes from?

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When I did this (it was a clutch not brakes, but same thing) I used a syringe sold by any auto supplies place for filling gearboxes etc (If previously used for this it must be scrupulously cleaned before using on hydraulic systems). They are not very expensive. I think I found some plastic tubing that fitted both the syringe and the bleed nipple, but it was a couple of years ago and I can't remember for sure.

John

When you bled the brakes in the conventional manner, did you try stamping on the pedal as hard as you can?

This was a trick told to me by a LR mechanic years ago and I have triumphed with the method twice. The S2A handbook I had said to "...depress the pedal smartly." which means the same thing.

Try it and if it doesn't work, then maybe the wheel cylinders are letting air in past the seals,

Cheers Charlie

If your problem happens to be air trapped in the system and you haven't moved it by conventional means, try this foolproof method.
Select a glass jar with an air tight lid.
Fit two plastic tubes through the lid (one long and one short -making an airtight seal once again.)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/01/972.jpg
Fit the long tube to the vacuum suction pipe on the carburettor.
Fit the other short tube to the appropriate brake bleeder.
Start the engine and run up to about 800 RPM.
Undo the bleeder screw and watch the fluid suck into the clear jar.
When all bubbling stops, go to next wheel. Don't forget to top up fluid levels!)
The difference between doing it this way and pressure bleeding is that suction will remove trapped air whilst pressure bleeding will only sometimes pressurise and compress the same trapped air.
Give it a go. It will only cost you a bit of time and the cost of enough plastic tube to reach each corner of your car.
If you still have spongy brakes then the problem is elsewhere!
Regards
Glen