Hi tibbsy
The usual place in Blackburn has new crossmembers at a reasonable price, their service is good too. Enjoying the tread, keep the pics coming:)
Cheers Simon
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Hi tibbsy
The usual place in Blackburn has new crossmembers at a reasonable price, their service is good too. Enjoying the tread, keep the pics coming:)
Cheers Simon
Busy weekend!! Bulkhead is now out!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/05/1030.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/05/1548.jpg
Mind you I had help.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/05/1549.jpg
I started to remove the engine and almost had it out, only there is one bolt that has caused be pain! It behind the cutch cylinder and I can’t get into it. Well i can I just have to remove the front drive shaft (which I would have to do anyway).
Another thing I notice that there is a hand throttle on the bulkhead, I looked in the manual and the hand throttle was on the diesel models? Does this mean that the car was a diesel (before they put the Holden engine in) or could you get this option on petrol too?? I'd toyed with the idea of a diesel in the long run when I go back to standard.
Will update again soon!
Hand throttle was optional on all models, came with some extras such as the capstan winch. Most of the Series Landrovers I have had to do with have had them fitted, petrol or diesel, so I don't think you can assume anything from its presence. The original engine type should be apparent from the chassis number.Quote:
Originally Posted by tibbsy
John
Well i think the body number is 7066 and the serial is 1097066?? I'm not sure that this is the chassis number?? Where would I find it?
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/05/1523.jpg
The chassis number can be located on the left hand rear most spring hanger. Look it up on CalVIN (Clifton Scientific Text Services, the Netherlands) to work out which motor you had.
Nice progress, keep up the good work!
Cheers,
Martin
I'll look for that Chassis number, i think that it's there under the dirt and rust!!
I little more progress - Engine out
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/05/1374.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/05/1375.jpg
Not much will happen this weekend (6hr enduro moutain bike race!!!). The next tasks will be to start to clean the chassis. I've decided that there isn't much point removing the gear box (as i'm not going to build it), so I will clean around it and paint around it. I've noticed that the spring bushes are gone and the spring has been hitting the chassis a little. So in addition to replacing the rear cross memeber and welding the bumper mount, i will need to replace a small section under the rear spring mounts at the front of the chassis!
Will update again soon!!
You must be off to the convict 100.
This will be my 1st year missing it, im pretty gutted.
Good luck, and don't forget to pack the cement pills to get you through that last 30km
Have a look through the REMLR pages and Site, should show you clearly how the Military mounted the second fuel tank and plumbed it in on thier II and IIA fleet. Also how they ran the fuel guages, it is a fairly simple system (for the simple people that had to work on them........:banana:....)Quote:
Originally Posted by tibbsy
Thanks medic455 i'll search through there forum!!
Another question for the team!! I've started to clean up the chassis, i hitting it with a wirebrush on a drill and wirebrush on an anglegrinder.
So my question is - how clean does the chassis need to be for painting?
Keeping in mind that this is not a show piece, I will be driving, 4wding and using this vehicle as it was intended!! so i'm not concerned so much by the look of the paint work (on the chassis) as i am by the paint retension. I'm painting the chassis with a chassis black paint and after cleaning i've taken the dirty and rust off, but there is still some of the orginal paint on the chassis!! Is it going to cause me concern still having the paint on the chassis??
Cheers
Ideally, you would go to bare metal, but realistically this is hardly practical. If existing paint is dry and absolutely free of any trace of oil or dirt, and if the surface is slightly roughened, paint will almost always adhere satisfactorily. However, read the instructions on the paint you are using - some may require a barrier over existing paint.Quote:
Originally Posted by tibbsy
John