Locking hubs

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Landygirl

So what the general consenus on what the best hubs are?

1. Warn
2. SUE
3. No hubs
4. Other brands

This tends to get confusing after a while

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1. No hubs
2. AVM/new Warn
3. Old Warn
4. MAP
5. Selectro
6. Any other brands
7. SUE
8. 2WD

Although some of the list could be compared to the Ford Vs Holden debate, particularly in our parents generation.

I'd probably put no hubs 1st, and having inspected the insides of the SUE I wouldn't even put them on the list, so:

1/ No hubs
2/ Other brands

I can't prioritise between the other brands because I have yet to examine them.

My portals with large diameter bottom shafts don't give me the option of using off the shelf FWHs, but my choice would be.
1,-Steel bodied Selectros with upgraded cam rings.
2- Fairey
3- no hubs.
4-Early AVMs that have a proper bronze bushing in the housing to support the halfshaft drive member instead of it riding directly in the cast iron of the hub body.
No other options.Tried all the other brands and they are crap.
Don't need to worry about lack of lubrication to other front end components because I 4wd often enough that this is not an issue. Why would anyone own a series LandRover if not to regularly use the 4wd feature:confused:
Bill.

Thanks thats awesome i think im just going to go with new warn hub but maybe the heavy duty one not just the standard! now all i have to do is find out who sells them.

Anyone know?

Also the spacer type things behind them that go between the hub and the freewheel mechanism do they come with the hub as thats actually whats broken on mine

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wagoo

My portals with large diameter bottom shafts don't give me the option of using off the shelf FWHs, but my choice would be.
1,-Steel bodied Selectros with upgraded cam rings.
2- Fairey
3- no hubs.
4-Early AVMs that have a proper bronze bushing in the housing to support the halfshaft drive member instead of it riding directly in the cast iron of the hub body.
No other options.Tried all the other brands and they are crap.
Don't need to worry about lack of lubrication to other front end components because I 4wd often enough that this is not an issue. Why would anyone own a series LandRover if not to regularly use the 4wd feature:confused:
Bill.

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Hi Bill

The Fairey are the MAP aren't they? Or at least fairey bought out Mayflower Auto Parts.

The big problem with the hubs is trying to find someone who has them, to be honest about what they have. How many times have you asked for USA/Au/GB Timken or Japanese bearings and received Indian Timken or Chinese something else.

Diana

If you look on Warn's web site you will find they don't list any hubs for Land Rovers. But they list their Sydney dealer as Ateco Equipment 02 8577 8151


Selectro are made by Milemarker (www.milemarker.com) and they still list both 10 spline and 24 spline LR versions.

This is interesting as I has what has turned out to be SUE's (genuine SUE's as they were marked) on my 2a but could never ID them. Always thought they were OK as I never had a failure, they were easy to service (just orings) and held the wheel up to align the studs when changing.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

Hi Bill

The Fairey are the MAP aren't they? Or at least fairey bought out Mayflower Auto Parts.

The big problem with the hubs is trying to find someone who has them, to be honest about what they have. How many times have you asked for USA/Au/GB Timken or Japanese bearings and received Indian Timken or Chinese something else.

Diana

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Hi Diana. I believe the earlier Fairey hubs were of the same design as the MAP types, where they were engaged by turning a hexagonal knob with a 15/16'' wheelbrace. These hubs had a habit of occasionally skipping and slipping as the palls cocked in their slots and rode up the unlocking cam ramps,
The later Fairey hubs were similar in design and operation to Selectro hubs with the exception that Faireys use a sqare section nylon strip that is fed through a hole in the twist knob and slots into an annular groove in both the knob and the hub body. This strip retains the knob to the body instead of the 3 screws that Selectro use to do the same. This feature is the cause of the destruction of many Fairey hubs by mechanics and others that couldn't decipher how the hub is assembled. I believe they are the only FWH that was tested and approved by LandRover. Not that that is much of an endorsement, seeing as LandRover also approved Fairey overdrives, and we know what they are like.
Bill.

I ran a driveflange on one wheel and a steel selectro on the other for some years with no ill effects to the rest of the front end.This is similar in principal to some Toyota four runners and old Chev Blazers that had a vacuum inner halfshaft disconnect on one side only.The single hub has the advantage of vibration reduction, but there is just sufficient drag to roll the differential, halfshafts etc to keep things lubed.
Bill.

More photos of the Shute Upton PowerLock hub, this time "another way to die".


Rather than the star gear forcing the cam out through the side of the aluminium casing, this time the star gear itself lost a lobe....
Attachment 41860


The lobe jammed between the star gear and the case, and pushed the side out. When unlocked, the loose piece of the gear can move about in the hub and sporadically jam, causing further damage. When locked, the hub can engage both cams or only one, depending on the position of the star gear. The driver has no idea this is happening until they notice the sides of the hub pushed out.
Attachment 41861


The surface of the cams themselves are starting to break down, pieces are falling off and floating around in the grease.
Attachment 41862


The nylon bushes, which provide the bearing surface between the drive axle and the hub when disengaged, are also failing.
Attachment 41863


With the nlon bush removed, another crack is revealed. This time the area at the base of the cam has cracked. The cam is free to rotate, but the cracked area has trapped the cam and it cannot be removed.
Attachment 41865