Ser 2a Build up Thread

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Originally Posted by Dinty

G'day All,
Landygirl, you should have give me a nudge, I could have taken you to Edden St Bellbird where the vehicle was, I looked at it sometime ago as I was told about a swb ex-mil Land Rover, I drove out to look but didn't get out of my 110, as it wasn't ex-mil.
I can tell you it has not been there 6 years, at that location maybe 5-7 weeks??, anyway thats past history now, your project is coming along well, keep at it, cheers Dennis:angel:

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Yes i didnt mean it had been sitting there for 6 yrs it was at his brothers before he had it and he moved it to his house to sell it. It not ex military thats true its more of a military wanna be which is unfortunate but it doesnt bother me. Good to know there someone else out there who had seen it. I must admit when i went there i wasnt expecting much but once i got it home i realise that for $500 it was a steal, the engine is pretty much spot on and there really wasnt much rust compared to the other million i had looked at.

It has already been registered with the 173 so theres no need to get it engineered and as i said it cost me bugger all! had a good camping trip back up to the old stomping ground too so all worked out great.

He was very upfront about the car never claimed it was ex military and i am now friends with him on facebook so he can follow the project and has been a great help. He basically told me it was a massive effort to get it back to rego and kept asking if i was sure it was right for me.

I think because i was female he may have thought it would all be too much but with my mechanical back ground, friends in the business, a friend who restores land rover (currently has a jacked up ser 2a on 33's with a 202 supercharger and full military suspension) as well as the fact that i work for repco and have access to an account with BMI nothing has been too much. and having a great forum for the added help too.

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Originally Posted by JDNSW

If the chassis number prefix is G or H then the lights should be in the guards. To change to lights in the radiator support, that panel will need to be changed for an earlier one.

The rusty door skins suggest that the doors have been reskinned with steel at some time - not particularly uncommon - my Series 2 had the RH door thus when I bought it s/h in 1963. The doors as built have the frame steel and the outer skin Birmabright alloy.

John

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My chassis number has a B at the engine which means it originally had the inner lights but they changed to military guards to aparently help stop the engine over heating mainly because they put a newer 4 cyl radiator with really crappy fans in it, so i will be changing that back to the inner lights and putting in a 6 cyl radiator and adding a large thermo fan to ensure engine cooling.

I do think the fact that when i opened the thermostat housing there was no thermostat may have had something to do with it but as for why they would take it out is beyond me!! lol

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Originally Posted by Landygirl

My chassis number has a B at the engine which means it originally had the inner lights but they changed to military guards to aparently help stop the engine over heating mainly because they put a newer 4 cyl radiator with really crappy fans in it, so i will be changing that back to the inner lights and putting in a 6 cyl radiator and adding a large thermo fan to ensure engine cooling.

I do think the fact that when i opened the thermostat housing there was no thermostat may have had something to do with it but as for why they would take it out is beyond me!! lol

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The chassis no shouldn't be at the engine. That would probably be the engine number.
It should be on a front spring hanger. You'll need to show that for registration.

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Originally Posted by Mick_Marsh

The chassis no shouldn't be at the engine. That would probably be the engine number.
It should be on a front spring hanger. You'll need to show that for registration.

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Yes fully aware of where it is! unfortunately my auto correct isnt quite so informed lol.

Engine = End lol

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Originally Posted by Landygirl

Yes fully aware of where it is! unfortunately my auto correct isnt quite so informed lol.

Engine = End lol

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My mobile was totally useless for writing text messages until someone turned the pre-emptive text off.

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Originally Posted by Mick_Marsh

My mobile was totally useless for writing text messages until someone turned the pre-emptive text off.

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Theres actually a site dedicated to auto correct its great for a laugh

Damn You Auto Correct! - Funny iPhone Fails and Autocorrect Horror Stories

Slightly off topic but worth it i think even if it bring only one smile :D

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Originally Posted by Mick_Marsh

I think you will **** they were actually 2A's. at least this wide light workshop was.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1323855106

I'm off to REMLR just to double check.

I can only find fourteen of them on REMLR. I had heard there were about 40 of them
178-033, 178-042, 178-044, 178-050, 178-051, 178-054, 178-056, 178-058, 178-066, 178-067, 178-068, 178-069, 178-032, 178-065

Sorry to hijack the thread.
Please resume normal service.

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Definitely S3 (mine is 1981) and yes 40 were made.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Landygirl

I do think the fact that when i opened the thermostat housing there was no thermostat may have had something to do with it but as for why they would take it out is beyond me!! lol

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Taking the thermostat out is a dodge when the engine is overheating - your plan to install a bigger radiator and thermo fan is a good one.

Just to confirm that the chassis no. should be on the LH rear spring hanger,

Cheers Charlie

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mick_Marsh

The chassis no shouldn't be at the engine. That would probably be the engine number.
It should be on a front spring hanger. You'll need to show that for registration.

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No. If it is an Australian assembled 2a, it will be on the LH rear back spring hanger. Home market ones had it on the front hanger.

John

Decided to get the front passanger wheel off seen as the brake was binding up and there was oil n grease leaking everywhere.

The drum was interesting to get off the manual didnt help in anyway, for starters it was missing a hub bolt, then i had to screw a bolt into the drum to remove it (manual said it had a small screw) no matter how i adjusted it the adjuster wouldnt wor properly so the shoes got stuck in the drum as i was removing it nothing a big screwdriver couldnt fix but finally got it off to find the shoes covered in dirt and grease, wheel cylinder intact and not leaking so it appears the axle is leaking.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/12/620.jpg


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/12/621.jpg


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/12/622.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/12/623.jpg


So i now have some axle seals and will be cleaning it up and putting it back together until i get the parts for the brake upgrade.

Firewall has been welded and looks great (dont have pics yet) so i decided to start putting her back together. Ute tub back on and seat box back in, the transmission tunnel will need some tiding up as someone decided to butcher it to fit the overdrive lever.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/12/624.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/12/625.jpg

Next thing to do is fix the axle seals and put the firewall back in while i wait for the paint to touch it up.

Well this is as far as ive got, i have new extractors for it and have to have an exhaust system made up for it, put in the new brakes. The brake pipe which should be here today but the nuts for it not too sure on where to get them but i can figure that out while i am still deciding whether to do the single or dual circuit.