Hey Arthur me again. So are all the offsets positive, as in moves the wheels out towards the outside of the car away from the diff?
Hi Dauntless
Could you tell us the part number that is stamped on your rim please?
The part numbers, (from spare parts manual STC 9021,) for the Defender are:
NRC 7578 ..... 5.5F x 16-riveted-tubed ........ to (VIN) TA 72779
ANR 4636 ..... 5.5j x 16-welded-tubed ..... from (VIN) TA 72780
ANR 1534 ..... 6.5j x 16-riveted-tubed ........ to (VIN) TA 999222 .... heavy duty suspension
ANR 5593 ..... 6.5j x 16-welded-tubed ...... from (VIN) TA 999223 .... heavy duty suspension
ANR 4583 ..... 6.5j x 16-welded-tubeless ... from (VIN) TA 999223 .... heavy duty suspension
The part numbers, (from spare parts manual RTC 9300,) for Series 2A and 3 are:
231601 ................................................. 88"
272309 ................................................ 109" ... Series 2A, offset-centre line 46.04mm (1 13/16")
569690 ................................................ 109" ... Series 2A and 3, offset-centre line 33.34mm (1 5/16")
560204 ................................................ 109" ... Series 2A 1 ton
Using these numbers in conjunction with that page of wheel offsets that
Lotz-A-Landies has posted should get you sorted.
( still searching for that page )
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...-modified3.jpg
Last edited by wrinklearthur; 13th March 2012 at 10:41 AM. Reason: ANR 4636 welded
Hey Arthur me again. So are all the offsets positive, as in moves the wheels out towards the outside of the car away from the diff?
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
depends on how slow you're willing to travel for straight up and down and gentle throttle applications if your carefull you can stay that low all day long.
Generally 16PSI is the lowest reccomended pressure for normalish driving.
the lower the tyre pressure goes the more spread you get and ignoring a lot of factors its exponential so as you go lower in the pressure range a smaller number makes a much bigger difference in contact patch. The typical limiting factors that work against this are.
1. construction stiffness. trying to lower the pressure on a heavy duty tyre built to handle multiple thousands of tons isnt going to help as much as it will on a canvas rag tyre designed to flex around and bag out while only supporting a couple of dozen kilos. Similarly cross ply rag tyres flex a lot better than most radial steel belts.
2. Tyre life. The more it flexes the more likely you are to pinch it or punch it in both cases, theres a flat.
3. Rim Spinning. Without enough pressure to hold the beads to the rim and transmit the drive the rim spins in the rubber and you get no go and a flat in the mix.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Thank you very much to Arthur for the great pictures and blknight for your advice as well.
I'll just keep an ear out for either some 6.5" or 7" rims and put new rubber on them when i need to and i will definitely be book marking this thread as I'll use it for future reference.
My current tyres are Pirelli scorpion 8 ply 7.5 x 16's and although tough they don't give me enough surface area on the beach and the damn things never wear out.
And thank you grey ghost for starting the thread.
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