New Project...

**grey_ghost** · 21st January 2014, 08:51 AM

Hi All,

Not a lot to report as I am back at work... But I did manage to purchase a new exhaust system, as the old one was full of holes...

Here are some comparison photo's:

Note - in this picture the old section is a slightly different shape to the new one... The car did have a petrol tank installed in the passenger side which I have since removed as it was terrible (in many ways) - so I am hoping that the difference in the pipe seen here is because it had to scoot down or around the passenger side petrol tank. It has been that long I can't remember..

I noticed that the new pipes had grease, grime, scuff marks, etc on them - so naturally I decided to give them a quick sand:

Here they are painted - with VHT exhaust paint (silver) - so hopefully the exhaust will last for years to come:

I found that the paint was tricky to use as it is very thin, and runs easily. The can recommends that you recoat within 10 minutes, or 7 days!!!

**Johnno1969** · 21st January 2014, 11:13 PM

Hey where did you pick up that exhaust?

**grey_ghost** · 22nd January 2014, 07:23 AM

Hi John,

The usual suspect - Four Wheel Drives in Blackburn, Victoria. I can't remember the exact price, but it was less than $250.

I hope this helps - I was quite happy with that price.

**Johnno1969** · 22nd January 2014, 08:07 AM

Thanks for that. What diameter is it?

**grey_ghost** · 22nd January 2014, 08:58 AM

Buggered if I know!!!

I just walked in and said: "Can I please have a standard exhaust system for a 1960, Series II, SWB".

And that's what they provided - it's from Britpart.

I considered going down the path of extractors, and a complete 2" or 3" exhaust system - but then I remembered... It's a 54 year old 4 cylinder Land Rover - it's never going to be fast anyway, so why bother trying!

**Ozdunc** · 22nd January 2014, 09:59 AM

Diameter's about 1"7/8 or 1"3/4 for most of the length (from memory) its only when it exits the rear silencer does the pipe become a peashooter.
I think it was done to reduce noise.
I've toyed with cutting that last section off and welding on a bigger diameter end pipe to the silencer, but at the end of the day who are we kidding

But it would be an interesting experiment...

**Johnno1969** · 22nd January 2014, 04:48 PM

Originally Posted by grey_ghost

Buggered if I know!!!

I just walked in and said: "Can I please have a standard exhaust system for a 1960, Series II, SWB".

And that's what they provided - it's from Britpart.

I considered going down the path of extractors, and a complete 2" or 3" exhaust system - but then I remembered... It's a 54 year old 4 cylinder Land Rover - it's never going to be fast anyway, so why bother trying!

Thanks for the info. I thought I saw some Britpart stickers peeking out of the photos and guessed it was standard... just wasn't sure of the size. I am toying with the idea of using a 2" through system on my diesel, though, as you say - is there much point..? It depends upon what sort of quote I get from the exhaust place around the corner.

Cheers,

John

P.S. Mind you, even a 4hp increase would represent a statistically-significant improvement relative to original power figures....

**grey_ghost** · 25th January 2014, 06:26 AM

Hi All,

Last night I came home to find a present from Arthur on my doorstop! It is a complete set of Gearbox mounts for my S2 and they are in great nick. Interestingly I have worked out:

1) There are 2 mounts that attach from the chassis to the rubber mounts. One of these mounts is small, one of these mounts is bigger. Investigation shows that the smaller mount is for the RHS... So I assume that means DRIVERS SIDE?

2) On my car the Drivers side actually had the Passenger side mount (the bigger mount) fitted plus a home made plate.

3) On my car the Passenger side had a home made job without a plate.

4) Then there are 2 big brackets that attach to the actual gearbox. One of mine has been re-welded, so it must have failed at some point...

So my plan is to put everything back to standard.

I can only assume that the gearbox has suffered a large hit (which can be seen due to the very bent cross member), which caused one of the large mounts to fail (which has been re-welded), the LHS small mount has been completely replaced with a home made job, and the RHS mount was installed with the original LHS mount...

Hopefully I don't have any alignment issues when I put it all back together. It's curious to me that with the smaller mounts - there is a difference between the RHS and the LHS...

Onwards and Upwards!

**grey_ghost** · 25th January 2014, 01:50 PM

Hi All,

The (correct) gearbox mounts are now painted. Note the smaller one is for the RHS, the bigger one for the LHS:

The clutch slave cylinder bracket is also now painted:

Next task is to sand/clean/paint the head-light bowls. Here is a before:

Here is a during:

And here is a painted - only the first coat though:

I need to paint a second out on the outside, and 2 coats on the inside..

**grey_ghost** · 27th January 2014, 07:49 AM

Hi All,

Well this is the first day of re-construction... And it was a good one

I had a very good mate come over yesterday and so we hit it hard and got quite a bit done. When I say we, it's probably more like he - hence the reason why he's a top bloke!

First up - I had purchased replacement hand brake drum shoes and springs. I bought these items new figuring "I am replacing all of the other braking components, I might as well do these also"... I should have kept my money in my pocket..

On the left is a picture of the cleaned original springs and on the right are the new replacement springs. Note that not only are the new springs completely different in shape, but in size also..
Fail #1 for today - I will be using the originals.

Next up - the hand brake shoes. Here are the original ones - still with a bit of meat on them and looking a bit dirty:

In this picture on the left are the new shoes, and on the right are the original cleaned-up ones.
If you look at the new shoes (specifically the bottom one) it is the wrong shape. At each end of the shoe is a tab that goes into the wheel cylinder.
On that bottom shoe not only is the tab the wrong shape, it's also too small - so this shoe won't fit...
Fail #2 for today - I will be using the original shoes.

Next up - on the rear diff I had to install 4 x wheel studs. The original wheel studs had come off when I removed the wheels. I had read that you can weld these on or use loc-tite.
Considering I don't have a welder, I chose loc-tite instead. I also figure that when the car goes in for a roadworthy - I could ask the local mechanic to weld the studs on then.. Here's a pic:

Next up - here is a new rubber boot for one of the prop shafts:

Next up - the rear axle goes back in. Here is a picture of the drivers side rear leaf spring, new shock, new axle strap, new u-bolts, new bump stops, new brake protection plate:

Here is the left hand side:

Gearbox is now back in. All new gearbox mounts (the rubber bits), new bell housing rubber grommit:

Next up - front axle and springs. New shocks, new bump stops, new u-bolts, new split pins, new washers. Here is the left hand side:

Here is the right hand side:

I had purchased all new shackle pins but that was fail #3 - none of them fitted because they were too big (thick)... There was nothing really wrong with the old ones, so I ended up cleaning them and reusing them.

Here are the head-light bowls painted on the in-side (first coat):

Here are the brake adjusters (snails) ground off:

So lot's of jobs done - but still a massive amount of jobs to do!

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