Series Radius arms

Norm it sounds like you are keen to do it anyway but despite the claims of US Composities 98-99% closed cell
I used that as an underfloor pour in a tinnie.
Sure it stiffened the old girl up and got rid of the banging but I can tell you that a few years after the pour vs before the pour the hull weighs 100 or so kilos more.
40 kilos of foam went in... the rest Im afraid is water despite the claimsof the manufacturer you will not exclude water being trapped.

The only way I can dry this old girl out these days is flip it upside down and leave it a few weeks.

I think in a chassis poured foam is a terrible idea - it will trap water in voids and within the structure and you will never be able to dry it out. You will rust out the chassis from the inside out.

If you dont want to HDG then get a kero gun length of garden hose and a few litres of lanox/lanolin/fishoil etc etc jam the hose attached to the gun up the rails and spray it all about while slowly withdrawing

S

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by normbourne

...In any case, for rusting to continue, it will require oxygen, which of course would be in fairly limited supply once the chassis has been filled. Norm.

---

You don't need many O2 molecules, and along with the H2O, plenty will still be there...

When I rebuilt my S2 (Many years ago) it was not an option back then to hot dip so it got all the rust cut out and rebuilt. Then plugged all the holes and filled with fish oil and left to soak for a few weeks standing up. Then drained left to dry under cover. Then did the same with lanolin based stuff (thicker and stickier coast) and let dry. Then did same with zinc cold coat paint, poured in and sloshed around and drained.
Outside was back to bare metal, zinc coated, kill rusted, orminoided (bitumen based paint) and kill rusted again.

Never saw an ounce of rust in the 6 years I had it. Wish I knew where it was now. But then again maybe I don't depending on what was done to it after.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by clubagreenie

When I rebuilt my S2 (Many years ago) it was not an option back then to hot dip so it got all the rust cut out and rebuilt. Then plugged all the holes and filled with fish oil and left to soak for a few weeks standing up. Then drained left to dry under cover. Then did the same with lanolin based stuff (thicker and stickier coast) and let dry. Then did same with zinc cold coat paint, poured in and sloshed around and drained.
Outside was back to bare metal, zinc coated, kill rusted, orminoided (bitumen based paint) and kill rusted again.

Never saw an ounce of rust in the 6 years I had it. Wish I knew where it was now. But then again maybe I don't depending on what was done to it after.

---

how did the zinc paint bond to the fish oil/laolin blend???

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by normbourne

In any case, for rusting to continue, it will require oxygen, which of course would be in fairly limited supply once the chassis has been filled. Norm.

---

Then rejoice; because Flood's Penetrol will stop the oxygen; it is easy to apply; relatively cheap and can be over-painted. Forget the foam it won't stop the water,

Cheers Charlie

Once it was left to completely dry out it was fine. Like the fish oil, many people have complained that they can't paint over treated surfaces but being oily it needs to dry right out and essentially set. I built the chassis and then left it for a couple of years while I did the body, engine, gearbox etc. Eventually put it all back together.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dougal

Zinc electroplating isn't quite as good but will still get in all the nooks and crannies.

---

No it won't!

Electroplating inside a shape such as a cup, is exceedingly difficult to do and involves all sorts of trickery with extra anodes; electroplating the inside of a chassis is mission-impossible,

Cheers Charlie

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by chazza

No it won't!

Electroplating inside a shape such as a cup, is exceedingly difficult to do and involves all sorts of trickery with extra anodes; electroplating the inside of a chassis is mission-impossible,

Cheers Charlie

---

I should have said it'll get in more than spray galv will. It will get some deposits inside and the sacrificial protection is the important part.

Hi guys,

Thank you one and all for the interest, advice etc. tremendous response....!

It seems to me, that the main thrust is towards pockets that are not filled and becoming repositories of water, and the eventual breakdown of the foam.

Unfortunately there is no way to check.

The ideas regarding flooding the interior with fish oil, paint etc. is certainly valid.

The problem here is still the ingress of mud & crud etc.which is the prob I was trying to solve. But having said that if the interior is well coated it really won't matter.

Mention is made of the sacrificial nature of the Zinc in the galvanising, as protection, I don't know how valid that is, but how about Zinc sacrificial anodes....?? Similar to the type used on marine craft..? Anyway it would certainly be worth a try.

Thanks again,

Norm.