What have I done! IIa sitting out front.

Still waiting for clutch mechanism parts to arrive...

...tumbleweed rolls by...

So I pulled the clutch withdrawal mechanism in preparation

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...13/08/1578.jpg
All gone.

Disconnecting the cross shaft I found that one of the pins was held in with a nail, and the rubber grommet to the bellhousing was on backwards, leaving the cross shaft protruding through a 1" big hole. Rather than refitting correctly someone had wrapped the shaft with a thin foam strip and clamped it with a bit of coke can and a nut and bolt. A bit Heath Robinson but it kinda worked!
I'm planning to fit the grommet the right way round :D

Pulling the mech off revealed some pretty good news - there was minimal sludge at the bottom of the casing, and all the components looked to be in good condition.
The top hat withdrawal sleeve is actually in good condition, what Id though was scoring is actually how the face is machined.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...13/08/1579.jpg
And from the inside - with a quick wipe of the mating face and the bottom of the casting (to the LH side of the pic) - I haven't touched the fork prongs or the bearing.
Bearing is as smooth as silk. If only I'd had X-ray vision I could have left this completely alone and had the engine in by now. Oh well.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...13/08/1580.jpg

Since I have a new FAG bearing, and a top hat and cross shaft bushings coming I may as well continue with my plan to change them all, but I'm going to leave everything as it is until the parts arrive. I'd hate to press the top hat out of the bearing and risk possible damage only to have to refit due to parts getting lost on route.
But planning ahead, a 26mm socket should make a very suitable drift, sits on the bust nicely with a bit of play once inside the inner face of the bearing.
Yet to figure out the best way of holding the casing whilst drifting the top hat out.

Thanks for this. Shows me how much I still have to learn! Very little of what you have written makes any sense at all to me at this early stage. :eek:
Since you are rebuilding the clutch, may I ask what you reckon is the problem with mine. I am having increasing difficulty getting Hedley into gear without horrendous crunching whenever I try, and yet sometimes, it slips in gear just fine. Would this be a clutch adjustment issue, or something more complicated? Is this something I could put right while the drivetrain is still all together, or will I have to wait until I pull the engine out?
Many thanks.
Garry

Mate, I'm no expert. I'm just winging it as I go along:D

My usual technique for troubleshooting is to always trying the simple things first.
1st and 2nd have no syncro so they're always going to be notchy.
I'd be checking your clutch pedal height, master cylinder adjustment and slave cylinder adjustments first of all, as these can be done easily.
Then I'd probably try bleeding the system, testing the integrity of the seals in the cylinders.
After that if it doesn't work I'd move on to the clutch, maybe the springs are tired, the plate is worn, and if none of that checks out its the gearbox.

The proper LR manual for the 2a has a pretty good troubleshooting guide for the gearbox in it - if you dont have one, you should get one. And the parts catalogue - just seeing all the pieces that make up a part often makes working on it much easier.

Hey Dunc,

Where did you source the spin-on from? I have only had luck from Canada so far...

Sam

Paddocks.
Part No ETC5347.

Can't rememeber the price as it was in with a bunch of other stuff, they're not cheap though.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ozdunc

Mate, I'm no expert. I'm just winging it as I go along:D

My usual technique for troubleshooting is to always trying the simple things first.
1st and 2nd have no syncro so they're always going to be notchy.
I'd be checking your clutch pedal height, master cylinder adjustment and slave cylinder adjustments first of all, as these can be done easily.
Then I'd probably try bleeding the system, testing the integrity of the seals in the cylinders.
After that if it doesn't work I'd move on to the clutch, maybe the springs are tired, the plate is worn, and if none of that checks out its the gearbox.

The proper LR manual for the 2a has a pretty good troubleshooting guide for the gearbox in it - if you dont have one, you should get one. And the parts catalogue - just seeing all the pieces that make up a part often makes working on it much easier.

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Thanks for that. I am certainly winging it! I have already adjusted the pedal and slave cylinder - as you say, these are quite easy. I do have the Parts Manual and the Haynes and, as you say, they are excellent. I'm going to be pulling everything out of Hedley very soon anyway, so I guess that will sort things one way or another. cheers!

The Haynes is pretty good but not a patch on the proper LR workshop manual.
Itd be a good investment as you're doing a ground up restore.
It's full title is "Land Rover Series II and IIa Repair Operation Manual", reference AKM8159

Thanks once again. Never heard of it. I thought the Haynes was the only workshop manual. I have just ordered a Repair Operation Manual. I need all the help I can get. :cool:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by garrywlh

Never heard of it. I thought the Haynes was the only workshop manual.

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Have a look at this shop and you will find that most books are available for Land Rovers.
Land Rover Series 2, 2A and 3 Books | Manuals | Paddock

Cheers Charlie

Whilst still waiting for the clutch bits over the weekend i installed the spin on oil adapter to the engine, and coated the headers with penetrol (I have no idea how long it will last once the old fella is back running, but if it retards the rust even for a little while its good, plus it looks nice:) )

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...13/08/1306.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...13/08/1307.jpg