What have I done! IIa sitting out front.

Then yesterday the parts arrived! Huzzah!

So I removed the cross-shaft and fork and drifted out the top-hat bush from the release bearing
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...13/08/1301.jpg

Then compared the new bearing and bushing to the old set, they are close but not close enough. New one on left, old on right.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...13/08/1302.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...13/08/1303.jpg

I looked at the differences and the width of the hat is the same as is the overall height and internal diameter (at the bearing end) , but its the bearing thats the issue. The FAG bearing is 72mm across (the SKF original bearing is 70mm), and won't fit in the casing.

Another difference in the hat is in my current one there is a ridge the accepts a rubber seal to prevent oil leaking out along the input shaft

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...13/08/1304.jpg

Here's the casing casting with the number stamp on it incase anyone can shed any light on the matter.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...13/08/1305.jpg

Some other info that might help:
the bearing is a SFK 98207
case casting A528708
release fork 264807S

Gearbox 25400489A

Luckily the bearing and the hat are in good condition as are the seals and brass
bushes, so I'm going to drift the bearing back on and refit the whole unit with a new gasket
Hopefully the engine will go in the weekend
:cool:

thanks so much for this helpful info on this Dunc.

btw, your advice about my clutch problem was spot on. I persisted with adjusting the pushrod at the slave cylinder and, whadayaknow - smooth, quiet gear changing on all gears. :)

cheers!

Excellent news. Nice to know there's no gremlins in the gearbox.

The clutch unit is back on with new gaskets and the gearbox filled with oil.

Is it just me, but its a great feeling putting clean fresh oil into a component:D

Well its been a big weekend - the new engine is in! Huzzah.

But before that here's the bellhousing for one last time
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...13/08/1013.jpg

The grommet fitted as it should be - its a right pain to fit though. You need to get the grommet over the end of the clutch release unit at the same time as forcing the lip of the grommet through the bell housing. Took me about 40mins and much grunting and sweating to do this 'simple' job.

Fitted some new clutch pins to the cross shaft
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...13/08/1014.jpg

Definitely use the proper hardened pins, the old ones were showing signs of the pressure they get put under. Hard to show on a photo but you could feel the ridges down the the pin shaft.

OK, so here we go - engine in!!!!!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...13/08/1015.jpg

Tip: don't think you can shortcut and put the engine mounts on before getting the bell housing to mate - it doesn't work and you end up scratching your newly painted chassis
Tip2: 2 heads and 4 hands are not negotiable.
Tip3: 4ft length of 4x2 timber aid in wiggling from the front of the engine and a length of 2x1 to wiggle the gear box helps that final seating together.
Tip4: Remember to put the 'box in gear

In the above photo you can see the PCV (the green disc by the carb). I'm not to sure about adding oil back into the inlet manifold after the carb incase the air/fuel mixture gets affected( I might be over thinking this ), and I needed the port for the brake servo anyway. So I rigged up a catch can

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...13/08/1016.jpg

It's just a length of fuel hose into a small unused paint tin with some steel wool scourer pads and a breather hole
I'll keep an eye on it and depending on how much oil it collects I'll decide what to do.

Mostly back together - connected the battery and was much relived to see a charge light and the oil pressure light come up
Still need to put the cooling system back together and connect the lights but its looking a lot more like it should.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...13/08/1017.jpg

awesome stuff, loving the pics

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ozdunc

Tip3: 4ft length of 4x2 timber aid in wiggling from the front of the engine ...

---

I agree - both my S3 and S1 are conveniently supplied with a front cross-member, which acts as the fulcrum for the lever and makes a hefty push rearwards absurdly easy :D

Nice job Dunc!

Cheers Charlie

Cheers chaps!

I'm almost there. I've connected the headlights back up, and chopped the exhaust ready to mate to the headers, just need to connect the chopped bit back in and add some coolant.

Then prime the oil filter and pump ( I'll dribble some oil over the rockers and down the push rods as well) and it'll be time to turn him over!!!

I'm very excited, but a little bit scared as well. :)

Looking good Dunc, Its a great feeling when you get one back together, Cant wait to fire Ralph up (Hopefully next weekend).
Cheers Ian

Exhaust is connected to the headers

The end of the headers were sized so that the OD of the standard exhaust was the ID of the headers so you could slip one inside the other. Pretty cool :cool:

However in practice the slight bend/shaping on the tube where they would join meant they weren't going to fit without much force and or reaming the ID of the headers. So I trimmed the exhaust to butt up instead.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/08/894.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/08/895.jpg

After cutting and a nice coating of Penetrol:D

To join the two ends I had a reducing sleeve made up by my local exhaust place. Done while-U-wait and only $20 with clamps, can't complain about that.

Bit of wiggling and all set up. Its a nice snug fit.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/08/896.jpg

But wasn't happy with the clamp positioning - if you twist them to minimise how much they hang down, they'll knock on the chassis once its moving. So I'm trying some stainless Jubilee clips.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/08/897.jpg

As you can see much smoother and more aero-dynamic :angel:

A weekend of highs and lows and highs again:D

Removed the rocker cover and using a 2 stroke oil syringe dribbled oil over the rockers and down the pushrods, removed the plugs and stuck <5mm of oil into the plugs holes, and left that to seep around for 40mins or so.
Meanwhile filled the oil filter and screwed in on - didn't spill a single drop then used on of the casting ports on the filter adapter to prime the oil gallerys. The oil was vertical rather than using the horizontal oil sender port, so no mess.

Turned the starter motor over twice for 5 secs a time and the oil pressure light went out:cool: Reconnected the plugs leads, pushed Bill out the garage into the light, and turned the key. Stalled a couple of times, getting fuel into the carb, then started running, gave it some herbs and plumes of smoke came out.
This I think was due to the oil I'd put in the chambers, and the fact that the low idle mixture screw was completely out on the carby.
Charge light went out on idle, so I'm thinking I got the alternator wiring OK.
Played with the idle and mixture screws and got it to idle quite nicely, not perfect but no puffing and no smoke.
Tried rolling backwards and forwards in the driveway but gears were graunching, esp changing from first to reverse and vice versa.

Adjusted the slave cylinder to the manual, no change so played around with the pushrod setting until noises seems to go away.
Put the bulkhead panels and the floor in, ready for the maiden journey.
Reversed down the drive, and out on the street, which is a little uphill. Engine was losing power under load and needed a few herbs to move, then there was a soft pop from the gearbox/clutch area and Bill had no drive. Nothing in any gear, and I'm stuck halfway out into the road.:(

Out with the tirfor and I winched my forlorn little truck back towards the garage.
A this point I had to leave it for the day as it was getting dark, I was a little despondent.

A new day dawned and I had a plan.
I re-bled the slave. No change, hmmm.
I disconnected the pushrod completely from the cross shaft lever as I thought maybe that my fettling yesterday had over adjusted the pushrod and that the clutch plate wasn't clamping down properly. Disconnected, I then thought I can check the clutch operation by key starting the truck and having it bounce forwards. Started it and it sat there idling happily with no sign of movement:no2:
At this point I'm getting a bit down and thinking I've mucked up the mating of the engine and bellhousing and cracked or broken the clutch plate somehow, so I resign myself to having to pull out the gearbox and start again. I pull out the mats on the drivers side, and it hits me - the big red lever is sitting in the middle. All this angst and my only issue is a neutral transfer case :facepalm:
Do I feel like a complete plonker or what?

Reconnected the slave, realising that the pushrod is nothing like the one in the manual, set the slave to be at the top of its stroke when the clutch fork is just touching the bearing. And with the transfer case now in high, the gearbox shifts beautifully.

I'm still having a few issues with timing and fuelling as its not running too well under load, but it is going backwards and forwards under its on power. I'm calling it a win :banana::twobeers::banana:

My exhaust fix - didn't. Jubilee clips don't give enough clamping force to make the sleeve airtight, actually neither do the other clamps, but combined with some exhaust bandage it works very well.
Although after wrapping and hardening the bandage I realised that the exhaust had rotated and was touching the gearbox mount and is probably the source of my vibrations in the bodywork. I'll sort that later.

He's back together and looking good. I'm happy.
Cheers