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You could to see if the mating surface between carby and manifold is leaking, use some carby/throttle body cleaner (also seen this done using lpg) spaying around the mating surface if the idle changes while doing this it's sucking air, you can do this around the inlet manifold as well but keep a fire extinguisher on hand.
Thanks Chris
Will get to the carb tonight. On this engine, the inlet manifold is part of the alloy head, so fewer joints to leak. I have an overhaul kits with all the carb gaskets, o-rings etc, so will do them all and see if it makes a difference.
Cheers
Roger
Roger what are these motor's really like as I have one thats out of my series 2a and don't no a lot about them apart from what I've read and most have been swapped out for something with a bit more power, I'm just waying up if it's worth rebuilding or doing the swap.
How did you get on with the carby rebuild ?
Cheers Chris
Hi Chris
Didn't get to the carb last night, but I did go for a drive and think that new points, tappet adjustments etc have made a difference. Carb is next to do.
I'm really just learning about these engines, but here's what I think about mine:
First, its's the original engine in an original condition land rover, and both are a bit rare, so I want to keep it that way. As you said, not many left.
Second, as I get the hang of it, I'm finding it great to drive.
Most of the time I take off in 2nd, 3rd is very torquey and 4th will sit happily at 100-110 kph on the highway. I also have an overdrive but only really use it to reduce revs at top speed on flat or downhill runs, and occasionally as a '3 and a half' gear when climbing steep hills.
It took me a while to get used to double-declutching, but now find 3rd is so strong at low revs that I rarely need to change down to 2nd. It is definitely not nippy, but its is lugging 2 tons of Dormobile around.
Also, it makes a beautiful exhaust note when accelerating under load.
The Holden engines are more powerful, less fickle, and easier to get parts for - but they aren't the reasons I drive old land rovers.
Good luck with your decision!
Roger
I'm told that the exhaust valves are a weak point (as on most F-head motors).
PITA to get to to adjust, ended up removing the dipstick tube so that the cover plate can be removed (otherwise the manifold has to come off).
Details here of a 6-cyl overhaul. Done on the cheap....... I ended up hand scraping the wear ridge at the top of the bores.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/leaf-sprun...fr-refurb.html
I haven't done much with it for a while (lost momentum on this project) but a couple of times it has suddenly run very 'lumpy' and then shut down. I suspect a problem with the carby but not sure yet.
Spares for the 6-cylinder are getting hard to find and/or expensive. Water pumps are expensive/scarce but you can go to a specialist and get the original rebuilt. Exhaust manifolds regularly crack.
4 Wheel Drives in Blackburn have some spares.
Best of luck,
Colin
Thanks Colin - rebuild thread very helpful. I am lucky mine is in better nick to start with.
I have been putting off doing the exhaust valves - thought I could only do it with the manifold off, which means dealing with rusted studs etc etc. till do 't quite get it - do you put it on ramps and work on it from below?
'lumpiness' sounds like what I have just fixed with new diaphragm, but still not happy with overall tuning yet.
Say hello to Narre for me - I grew up in Rowville.
Cheers
R
I have not worked on a six, but perhaps it should be remembered that on all Series Landrovers it is quite easy to remove a front mudguard for access (The first time you may have to twist off and replace a couple of bolts, but if you use antiseize it will be easy in the future.
Hope this helps
John
Thanks John - good point
I didn't put it up on ramps, just took the dipstick tube off from below, filter had to be removed to do this.Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamin'
The cover plate would then just squeeze past everything (I don't recall having to take anything else off). Bonnet needs to be removed or opened up against the windscreen.
I'd adjusted the clearances after the rebuild, fitted a new manifold (old one was cracked) then after running it for a while it sounded tappety so I decided to re-check.
There's a picture in my FFR thread (post# 28)that shows me on top of the engine adjusting the exhaust valve clearances......
Colin
I use a Molykote antiseize paste, but if you get it on your fingers and you have a itch that needs a scratch, the whole world knows! :angel:Quote:
Originally Posted by JDNSW
.