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Thread: Introducing DaOot

  1. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrinklearthur View Post
    First I would try a good drum off the back on that hub to see if there is a problem of where the drum sits on the hub.
    .
    Good idea

  2. #92
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    With Norm's remote booster idea, Ralph has one which is mounted underneath the drivers side guard to the left (from the front) of the master cylinder. Bit of a pain if you have to get to it, but it fits OK. Should be some photo's on Ralph's blog somewhere.
    Regards Ian
    1964, S2a SWB "Ralph"
    1977, S3 SWB "Smeg" (Gone)
    1996 D1 300tdi auto (Gone)
    1973 Rangie Classic (Gone)
    2012, 110 (Series 12) Puma "The Tardis"
    1962 109" Tray Back "Ernie"
    1998 D1 300tdi (Dizzy)
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    You must now cut down the tallest tree in the forest... With... A HERRING!!!!!

  3. #93
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cannon View Post
    Thanks Bacicat & Norm

    The guage starts at the bottom and steadily increases until it reaches the point indicated & stays there.
    ......

    Check how the 10v regulator is working - easiest is to fill the fuel tank and check the fuel gauge reading. If you find this does not indicate full, the regulator can be adjusted by turning this thin shaft that sticks out of it. It has a dab of glue to keep it in place, but this easily breaks. I do not remember which way to turn it! But it will only need a small change, and remember that the gauges react slowly.

    If the fuel gauge is accurate, the problem is probably the sender.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  4. #94
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    Bleeding the bleeding brakes

    Hi cannon,

    How's it going....? All seems to be quiet there on the home front as they say..!

    I've just come across the following on another forum:-

    "I have been using a easy and clean way of bleeding the brakes on my Series III which works really well and does away with a helper having to pump the pedal like mad.
    All you need is a short tube about 12" long and a syringe with a capacity of 20 to 30mls. Firstly drain most of the brake fluid from the resevoir. Fill the syringe with brake fluid, open the bleeder nipple, connect the syringe/tube to the nipple and inject its contents into the brake line. Next close of the nipple and hey presto! your brake will be rock hard as all the air has nowhere to go but out through the reservoir. Repeat for each drum as per your workshop manual (remember to reduce the fluid content in the reservoir after each brake is bled).

    There is sufficient fluid in the syringe to fill the brake line and partly fill the resevoir. A quick and easy solution to an awkward job."


    Obviously I've never tried it but it certainly seems worthy of a try, what a great idea...!!

    Anyway, just a thought,

    Norm.

  5. #95
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    Thanks norm, I've been really busy with work and kids' sport recently so DaOot's been neglected for a few weeks.

    The approaching Christmas season doesn't help either.

    I do like the syringe idea and have sort of tried it in the past but things didn't go that well.

    Never fear. When I get it sorted you'll all be the first to know

  6. #96
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    Today I've bought brake fluid & a carton of beer.

    We've got a free day tomorrow to spend getting the brakes bled once & for all.

    If not, well there's always the beer

  7. #97
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    So all of the brake components were on the ground.

    WC clamped with GClamps.

    All new fluid & still 40-50mm pedal travel untill rock hard.

    Clamp the rear hose & the pedal is rock hard no travel.

    We stomped on the pedal as hard as possible while bleeding the rears & stiil no joy.

    Time for drive

    We put the brakes back together & went for a scoot around the block then put the rear on the ramp & tried somemore bleeding.



    Still too much travel.

    We even tried the syringe thing both drawing out & pumping in.

    Dunno what do do now.

    I'm thinking of replacing the rear hose again incase the clamping has damaged it.

    Pulling the rear WCs apart & making sure they're all good.

    Or just taking it to a mechanic down the road...........I don't want to admit defeat though.


  8. #98
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    With plenty of beers I see

    We have had no joy with 'herc' either, Bloody brakes He is getting a run to the brake place this week, defeated

    Mrs hh
    Series Landy Rescue

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  9. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cannon View Post

    Or just taking it to a mechanic down the road...........I don't want to admit defeat though.
    That's the spirit. Never, ever, ever, ever give up!

  10. #100
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    Something to check would be the top spring under the wheel cylinder. Needs to be on the front or leading brake shoe and the other end on the peg, apparently if it's connected from one shoe to the other shoe it can take two or three pumps of the pedal to get the shoes out to the drum.

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