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Thread: Introducing DaOot

  1. #81
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    A long time ago in another life, I found that the rubber cups in one wheel cylinder were installed back to front.
    There was air trapped in between the back to front cup and the piston. This wheel didn't bleed properly until the parts were reassembled correctly.
    .

  2. #82
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    Thought of a Christmas present for my sister to get her nephew.

    Would one of these


    LAND ROVER 3 SERIES 71-85 QUALITY ITALIAN LEATHER STEERING WHEEL COVER



    fit one of these?





    I'm also open to other suggestions for cool bling for DaOot....suggestions of working brakes will be ignored
    Last edited by Cannon; 9th November 2013 at 04:43 PM. Reason: fixt spelin

  3. #83
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    So I was driving DaOot around today & was reminded to post here re the Temp Guage.

    It does not go passed here at all.

    The top hose is hot.

    The bottom hose is cooler.

    The radiator is hotter at the top than the bottom.

    There are no bubbles in the coolant with the radiator cap off.

    I've tightened & cleaned all of the connections behind the dash.

    Just a dodgy guage or is there something else I can check?


  4. #84
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    Could be a few things.

    The 10 volt regulator is shot, but your fuel gauge would be reading higher I would think. I would start by accurately measuring the engine temp - it could be fine, but the sender or gauge could be showing a bit out.

    Do you know anyone with a non contact infrared thermometer you old borrow? That would be the easiest and quickest way to check if you have a problem. My guess is that the engine is fine, and your gauge is out.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  5. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cannon View Post
    So I was driving DaOot around today & was reminded to post here re the Temp Guage.

    It does not go passed here at all.

    The top hose is hot.

    The bottom hose is cooler.

    The radiator is hotter at the top than the bottom.

    There are no bubbles in the coolant with the radiator cap off.

    I've tightened & cleaned all of the connections behind the dash.

    Just a dodgy guage or is there something else I can check?


    I think the engine is fine, radiator flow is hot in the top and cold out the bottom..
    as regards your gauge, where does it read when the engine is cold at start..?
    Does it read low and then steadily increase as temp rises, to the point indicated on your gauge..? If that is the case I would say that it is OK.


    I truly empathise in the matter of your brakes, having been through all that some years ago. I eventually trace my problem to a spongy hose on the right front brake. But I was never able to get a hard pedal on the first depression. In the end I installed a stand alone servo, which despite air in the system allowed me to stop on 5 cent piece, with minimal pressure on the brake pedal.

    At the minute I,m coming to the end of a massive rebuild which includes an upgrade to a dual brake system, including the Rover servo, as fitted to a series 3.
    the dual system means that there are two braking circuits, one to the front and one to the back brakes.


    Good luck,

    Norm.

  6. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by normbourne View Post
    as regards your gauge, where does it read when the engine is cold at start..?
    Does it read low and then steadily increase as temp rises, to the point indicated on your gauge..? If that is the case I would say that it is OK.


    I truly empathise in the matter of your brakes, having been through all that some years ago. I eventually trace my problem to a spongy hose on the right front brake. But I was never able to get a hard pedal on the first depression. In the end I installed a stand alone servo, which despite air in the system allowed me to stop on 5 cent piece, with minimal pressure on the brake pedal.

    At the minute I,m coming to the end of a massive rebuild which includes an upgrade to a dual brake system, including the Rover servo, as fitted to a series 3.
    the dual system means that there are two braking circuits, one to the front and one to the back brakes.


    Good luck,

    Norm.
    Thanks Bacicat & Norm

    The guage starts at the bottom and steadily increases until it reaches the point indicated & stays there.

    I'm interested in your stand alone servo Norm.

    re DaOot's brakes..........I set up a vacuum bleeding system today & ATM I don't want to say any more incase I jynx myself

  7. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cannon View Post
    Thanks Bacicat & Norm

    The guage starts at the bottom and steadily increases until it reaches the point indicated & stays there.

    I'm interested in your stand alone servo Norm.

    re DaOot's brakes..........I set up a vacuum bleeding system today & ATM I don't want to say any more incase I jynx myself
    Good Idea

    Mrs hh
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  8. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by The ho har's View Post
    [/B]Good Idea

    Mrs hh
    Quote Originally Posted by Cannon View Post
    Thanks Bacicat & Norm

    The guage starts at the bottom and steadily increases until it reaches the point indicated & stays there.

    I'm interested in your stand alone servo Norm.

    re DaOot's brakes..........I set up a vacuum bleeding system today & ATM I don't want to say any more incase I jynx myself
    Firstly, it sounds as though all is OK with engine cooling, although its difficult to tell the reading from the photo, but if it's reading a bit high it could mean that that maybe the rad needs a flush, or something...!

    As regards your brake system, the gear I'm talking about is termed a " Remote Brake Booster/Servo" and are made by PBR.

    My unit has the details:-

    PATEN BRAKE REPLACEMENTS, VH40-1, Model 2.

    The main problem is finding somewhere to mount it, I ended up making a bracket, mounted off the chassis on the manifold side of the engine bay.

    I don't know if that model is still current but they have one listed on EBay, with the designation VH-44 At varying prices, the cheapest being $175 post paid which I would think, do the job.

    . But if you email PBR and quote the above details, I feel sure they could offer you the correct alternative.

    My rebuild started 20 years ago but due to establishing a business and subsequent ill health, it's been dragged out.

    My booster was taken off at that time and has just been sitting in the garage,
    Obviously it won't be much good now, but the bracket may suit you, if so let me know..!

    I don't like to dwell on it but I can remember the sense of despair at my efforts to establish efficient brakes, my wife ended up with the legs of a champion cyclist, no matter what we did, vacuum etc. was all to no avail.

    For me at least, the remote servo was the answer, you take the pipe from the MC in one end and the pipe to the brakes in the other, and a vacuum pipe to the manifold. There is a bleed nipple fitted and that's it, talk about a sense of relief.....!

    Anyway Cobber, hope all this helps, talk soon,

    Norm.

  9. #89
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    [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b9IHJoYJVj4"]Not round? - YouTube[/ame]

    This isn't right is it?

    As you can see it's quite free but turning it either way binds on the brakes.

    I'm thinking it's not round.

    Is it worth trying to fix or should I just buy some new drums for the front?

  10. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cannon View Post
    As you can see it's quite free but turning it either way binds on the brakes.
    I'm thinking it's not round.
    Is it worth trying to fix or should I just buy some new drums for the front?
    First I would try a good drum off the back on that hub to see if there is a problem of where the drum sits on the hub.
    .

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