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I agree.Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleChevron
I don't have a booth so I have to take my chances inside my shed. If I pick a still day with a temperature from around-about 25-30 deg. C, the paint usually touch-dries fast enough for it not to be a problem. Occasionally I have had to hand polish out some fly legs:D
Cheers Charlie
I used enamel on the Tickford but now wish I hadnt.
I am using Acrylic Lacquer on the Royal. Easy to touch up whereas Enamel is not.
A coat or two of clear gives a bit of a shine but not too much as the old landies didnt have the shine that two pack or buffing does anyway.
Keep the pressure down and overspray is not a problem.
Keith
Don't go anywhere near your enamel car with acrylic laquer (well the thinner mainly) .... urggghhh.... Man did i learn that many years ago with my first car. You almost need to strip the damn panels back to bare metal to stop the enamel "crinkling" up. I have read you can use activators/hardeners in enamel these days ... so you end up with a much faster drying (likely tougher) paint. The issue is again, the hardener like that used in the urethanes is really toxic ***** :(Quote:
Originally Posted by 123rover50
I find with painting, you do learn everything, and I do mean absolutely every possible issue you can have the hard way ...... :censored: It sure is fun learning though. The last car I painted was a quick dodgy coat with PPG cobra base coat and the PPG high solids autothane clear..... Unbelievable ... the modern paints are incredible to apply... the finish off the gun is staggering. It was like looking into a mirror as it applied.
I'm never using anything but 2pack urethanes myself from now on.... but I do have a dodgy home made booth and an air fed mask these days (and no money or time to paint any of my toys, so I'll likely only paint a car every few years either way :( ... that's sad given I have 3 here right now that could do with a splash of paint).
It strange you mention clear with acrylic laquer. I have painted maybe 1/2dozen cars with acrylic laquer over the years. I found clear wasn't worth using unless you were painting metalic (as you couldn't colour sand/compound the finish, or you trashed the metalic pigments in the paint). If you colour sand and cut it up you'll end up with a mirror finish.
The red car shown in my posts I painted about 10years ago with acrylic laquer. The finish off the gun was crap... heavily textured and it didn't apply nicely at all (I was battling 30+degree heat when it was ready to paint).
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...13/07/1538.jpg
this is how the acylic laquer looks if you colour sand your heavily orange pealed finish back dead flat ......
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...13/07/1539.jpg
this is the same panel after being hit with a rotary buff and cutters (no polish at all). Acrylic laquer gives the most incredibly amazing reflective finish if you put the work in. the problem is it simply doesn't last for ***** :(
seeya,
Shane L.
The compressed air feed to the mask goes through a filter, fine filter, coalescing filter and then an activated carbon filter which is on the painters belt (this may be what was meant by 'charcoal filter').Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleChevron
The filters are to remove any oil that is carried over from the compressor because you don't want to breath it in and you definitely don't want it in the paint. The activated carbon filter removes smell.
The company I work for supply the filters/coalescing filters but the activated carbon filter is a proprietary unit used in the spray industry with simple drop in cartridges.
http://www.itwfinishing.com.au/profile.php?product=83
Colin
He might be thinking of the breathing aparatus used by welders these days. It picks up the fresh air supply from your belt :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by gromit
Most spray painters use a system similar to the link I posted.Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleChevron
The regulator and the activated carbon filter for the feed to the mask are belt mounted.
Colin