You can get at it pretty well just with the driver's floor out. How easy that is, depends on how rusty the bolts are......Quote:
Originally Posted by bentleighboy
John
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You can get at it pretty well just with the driver's floor out. How easy that is, depends on how rusty the bolts are......Quote:
Originally Posted by bentleighboy
John
And one other item to check, if you still don't have any drive (2wd) at the rear wheels, is to pull the axle cap(s) off, have some-one start and put it into gear and let the clutch out slowly, if the hex nut is turning then you need new drive flanges, they do wear out, cheers Dennis:angel:
ps I know from experience, a long time ago I removed the T/case sump, rear differential, only to find that the drive flange was U.S :(:(:mad::mad:;)
If you follow this link it shows in a picture how the high low stuff works
EX Army Land Rover Ambulance With Trailer in Sydney, NSW | eBay
Getting those screws/bolts out of the floor panels can be hard, I have broken screw drivers before
would take center seat etc out and see if drive shaft rotates in high range then look at axle diffs.Cheers Will
Ok, definitely stuck in 4WD when in high. (Paradigm shift- it's not failing to select 2WD, its not getting out of 4WD !) Can't get the little fella unstuck. Does anyone know a Landy garage in Melb they can recommend to sort it?
cheers,
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q2I17OtZp6E]Series Land Rover Driving Instruction Part 1 - YouTube[/ame]
;)
Pete
Try Fred Smith Automotive in Wantirna. But if it is failing to disengage, it is probably just the selector shafts rusty inside the dust cover on the front of the transfer case extension, quite an easy job to remove this and clean up with a wire brush.Quote:
Originally Posted by bentleighboy
John
the yellow knob not coming up is, as stated, usually just contaminated shafts or transmission wind up.
firmly chock the wheels on one side of the vehicle, jack up and axle stand the other side (so both right hand wheels off of the ground)
put the Tcase in neutral and have someone slowly turn the front wheel while you work the levers, it should come free.
If it doesnt pull the caps off of the nose of the tcase and have at the linkages with a gurny (dont go too hard at the seals you'll contaminate the tcase oil) and then the wd40/inox.
Finally have had time to get it out to Fred Smith in Bayswater. What a gun! If we ever organise a land rover trivia night I'll have him on my team. Bad news is, he thinks it is a broken rear axle, so the old girl only gets drive in high with the yellow knob down and the front wheels are being driven. Final diagnosis pending. Options are replace with OE items ( plus diff if there is damage there) or maxi drives. Car will be doing light club work, with dreams of a One Day Simpson desert crossing with the Club. Any strong opinions? I guess you get what you pay for...
If it is an 88 with standard engine, I see no problem with OE parts for the use you suggest. If it is a 109 and you are planning to use it for heavy loads offroad, or if power has been upgraded, the I would look at getting a salisbury rear axle rather than any other upgrade.
John