Thread: Introducing Betty

I wonder if the wrecked thread on the tie rod was the result of using the wrong type of tie rod end for the tie rod? Early ones (up to early Series 3) has an unthreaded section on both the tube and the end, where the clamp fitted and clamped on the unthreaded section. Later ones are all threaded, and clamp on the thread. If you have them mixed, the clamping is ineffective and will eventually wear the thread out, even if it does not unscrew and cause total failure.

Getting them mixed is easy, as the later type is more easily available today, and quite a few people who should know better are not aware of the distinction!

John

Thanks for the advice John. I certainly didn't know there are 2 types of tie rod. I reckon that novices like me are wise to leave brakes and steering to the experts. Getting it wrong can be painful.


Nic

I mentioned in my last post that I was keen to have the swivel seals replaced. Well I've just got Betty back from the mechanics who I asked to overhaul the swivel seals, replace the transfer case output shaft seals that had sprung a leak, and fit an oil pressure sender that worked.


The oil pressure sender was replaced when Betty was having the tie rod and tie rod ends replaced but it caused the oil light to come on when the engine was idling despite there being plenty of oil pressure. The light would only go out at higher revs. Roverworks sourced another oil pressure sender from the UK but this also didn't work correctly so after trying several other senders they installed a sender from a Discovery 1 and made a brass adaptor to make it fit. I now have a oil pressure light that works when it should.


The transfer case output shaft seals have been replaced and Betty no longer leaves a thick oily puddle wherever she goes.


The swivel seals however turned into an expensive saga. On removal of the swivels substantial rust was found inside the axle housing and all bearings, bushed and universal joints were well past there use by date. In truth they were well knackered. They kept the bits for me to inspect. The wear was very evident with pitting in the bearings and what looked like hammering in the bearing cups. Roverworks reckon the universals were so worn that they were close to falling apart. So a great deal of remedial work had to take place before the swivel seals could be replaced - to the extent of having bushes made up locally - and bearings and universals all being replaced.


Not surprisingly Betty is now a lot smoother and quieter in the front end and bumps in the road now longer unsettle her. I can even drive one handed whereas before I grasped the steering wheel in a two handed death grip.


And on a far cheaper note, I finally got around to cutting and polishing the paintwork on the canopy. She certainly looks better. The paintwork is all brushed on and very thin on the roof. I can't see any evidence of another coat of paint under the brushwork. And there is a 2cm round hole in the centre of the roof where maybe a spot light or flashing light once existed. No mounting holes however.


Some photos follow.


Cheers


Nic

Work has continued on Betty but I've been very slack in noting it here.

In February I had the gearbox and engine mounts replaced as they were so bad thebellhousing was sitting on the chassis cross member. I also had her tunedwith the tappets, carbie and timing adjusted and yet another check of thesteering as she still wandered around a bit. It was found that one of themajor nuts holding the steering (not sure which) was so loose it took 5complete turns to tighten it. Not surprisingly driving her was significantlyimproved by this work. I even saw 55mph on the speedo on the way home andI didn't have to hang on for grim death to avoid being speared off into thescrub at every bump in the road.

I now felt comfortable in driving her more and have used her a fair bit aroundthe rural estate we live on and in hooking up the box trailer and takingoffcuts down to Queanbeyan to the recycling centre.

I was using her the other day when she really didn't want to start. Given the slow grind of the starter motor Ithought maybe the battery was flat so I gave it a charge and Betty reluctantlycoughed into life. An hour later andsome 3 kms from home she simply would not start. There was not a breath of life so I had toring the NRMA as I was sure the battery was dead. It turned out that the battery was in greatshape and in tracing the current it appeared the starter motor was dead. The very loose post on the starter motor thatthe power lead bolts to seemed to indicate terminal starter motor problems. That was exactly the problem and Betty nowhas a brand spanking new starter motor that has transformed the ritual ofchurning her over to get her going. Shenow bursts into life which I have to say is terrific given the expense of a newstarter motor.

Now to my query about rivets. I am finallygetting around to having the driver's side rear panel repaired. The PO had a car drive into the side of himabout a month after a 2 year rebuild. The rear corner was badly damaged including the galvanised rearprotection bracket. This is normallyfixed with round headed solid rivets and I want the repairer to replacethese. He points out though that thosecan only be fixed with access to the rear of the rivet ? which I guess makessense. With the tub on the chassis rearaccess is not possible to allow the round headed rivets to be used. What he proposes though is to use pop rivetsand then turn down some aluminium to form little round headed plugs that wouldfit onto the pop rivet. Fiddly and nodoubt expensive but he can't see any other way it could be done. Has anyone had a similar experience in replacingrounded headed solid rivets with no access from the back.

Anysuggestions will be greatly appreciated.


Thanks


Nic

A month after the previous owner got her back on the road after a 2 year rebuild from a pile of bits a car ran into the driver's side rear. The damage was pretty significant with a torn off panel section behind the rear wheel and the corner galvanised moulding pretty damaged. The PO didn't repair it so I bought her with damaged rear panel work.


I've have finally got around to having it repaired, asking the repairer to not make the repair too obvious even to the point of using a brush on the fresh paint to match the brush marks elsewhere.


Here are some photos.


Cheers


Nic

To aid in the climb into the cabin I was fortunate to be able to purchase 2 very original (aka rusty and crusty) side steps. It took a lot of time to remove the rust using the Grey Ghost method with a wire brush fitted to an electric drill and then spraying several thin coats of etch primer and then several thin layers of matt black. New nuts, bolts and washers were purchased for the installation.


The thing that took the most time was waiting for the rubber mats, rivets and springs to arrive from the UK. John Craddocks sell them individually and the rubber mats are original Land Rover parts and fit really well.


It is possible to purchase brand new side steps from the UK based companies and to tell the truth this would have been a cheaper option but I wanted original parts made at the time of Betty's birth.


They work a treat. Photos of the before, during and after are attached.


Cheers


Nic

With our recent move to Maryborough in Qld I'm looking for an mechanic with experience with old Land Rovers.


I visited Andersons in Hervey Bay who say the are Land Rover experts but the bloke I spoke to about my 1962 Betty could not have more disinterested.


So has anyone any pointers to a experienced mechanic in the Maryborough area.


Thanks


Nic

Ha Ha, yes most mechs dont want to know you if the car is over 10yo! I do not know of any specialist series mechanics around as we all tend to do our own, given how simple they are to work on Like they were designed to be pulled apart and rebuilt under a gum tree! You may have to start learning or rethink is a series for you. Or drive it to me!
Cheers Scott