Lettie

Thanks so much for the excellent advice, as always, John.

I now know why the symptoms I described confused you (and me) so much.

Turns out, the park brake was jammed. I had disengaged it of course, but, as I was about to remove the hub, it occurred to me that I'd better check. Yep, the shoes were hard fast against the drum.

What I don't quite understand is why the other rear wheel was able to turn freely if the park brake was seized. Doesn't the park brake prevent the prop shaft from turning, thus braking both rear wheels?

Anyway, it is good to have been able to withdraw and check the half shafts and adjust the rear brakes in the process.

Now to overhaul the park brake.

Thanks once again, oh mighty Lord Rover. :)

Garry

There's always something else to fix isn't there.

We have a saying in the MG world that if an MG isn't giving you grief, it's merely resting. Maybe the same applies to Landies :cool:

I think the problem really is that the newest 2a is over forty years old! I seem to have few problems with the 110, which is only 29 years old, but I found a spring bush needs replacing on the 2a today!

John

Yep, cars this old require constant attention, but that's all part of the fun. At any given time there are usually several problems with my 101 but unless it becomes a potential show stopper, the time taken to repair it may vary from a few weeks to a few years....:D

I am needing to replace a decayed driver's side engine mount. I have a replacement, but I'm not sure of the procedure.

Is there a logical place to take the weight of the right hand side of the engine with a trolley jack and replace the mount? Or is there some other way to achieve this?

Thanks

Garry

Assuming you are talking about a Series Landrover, jack under the front middle of the engine, probably best with a block of wood under the timing case just behind the crankshaft pulley.

You don't need to be under the right side of the engine - it is not going to tilt sideways with the front propped and both gearbox mounts still attached. Trying to find something on the right hand side will just put the jack on your way. For that matter, once the weight is lifted off the mount, you can put a wooden wedge under the flywheel housing for security.

John

I would remove the nuts from both sides then lift the entire engine with the jack. Not sure if that's the right procedure but I think it would work.

If you have access to an engine crane or block and tackle theres a lifting hook at the front of the engine next to the thermostat.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ozdunc

If you have access to an engine crane or block and tackle theres a lifting hook at the front of the engine next to the thermostat.

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I've got to get the engine out of Wombat. She's got a 2.25 motor so I'm guessing she should have that hook too, though I don't recall seeing anything. What am I looking for? What about the rear of the motor?
Note: The head isn't bolted on and the studs are missing so I have to work with the block.

Sorry for the hijack.

There should be a lifting point at each end - but they are bolted to the head. A piece of flat steel with a slot in it.

John