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What he said. And they were fitted to military land rovers here as ive seen them on a local s2a ex vietnam 109 a couple streets from me. The left hand rear one has a cutout for access to the nato plugQuote:
Originally Posted by JDNSW
Sent from my GT-P5110 using AULRO mobile app
The cookie cutters were fitted to SIIa cargo (GS) while jerrycan holders were fitted to SIIa FFR/FFT.
GS cookie cutters
https://static.awm.gov.au/images/col...P07917.002.JPG
FFT jerry can holders
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/06/271.jpg
Series three all had jerry can holders.
The pommy rear bumperettes are made much lighter than the oz ones.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/06/272.jpg
The pommys also had front ones.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/06/273.jpg
those pommy front ones are just soooooo ugly!
good thing our mob fitted brush bars..
ooh, edit, can anyone explain the reason for the yellow disc, I have seen it on dca cars and other non military vehicles
In military parlance it is the Bridge Weight Designation (BWD).Quote:
Originally Posted by harry
For gross vehicle weights above 3 tonne (IIRC) a number indicating the weight class of bridges the vehicle is permitted to cross.
In the battlefield situation this is important when MPs are controlling bridges that may be damaged. There are sometimes double numbers on trucks indicating tare and gross weights depending if the vehicle is laden or unladen.
In aviation I believe it has a different meaning, and possibly that the vehicle is permitted to travel on live taxiways or runways.
I read somewhere that the front and rear 'bumperettes' were to allow vehicles to shunt each other up slopes or out of trouble if bogged or otherwise incapacitated.
really to push start on cold mornings, the front higher bumpers meet the rear bumperettesQuote:
Originally Posted by dreamin'
Great advice about the bumperettes - thanks
Some real progress over the weekend. Managed to get the passenger side fuel tank off at last - 3 weeks on one bolt is that a record?
After all that hard work i found that the tank had completely rusted through!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...15/07/1093.jpg
Then the strangest thing happened. I called in to the buy back shop at the local tip to get some scrap metal to practice my pathetic welding technique. And guess what - there laying among all the junk was a S2 land rover fuel tank. I have never seen fuel tanks of any kind at the tip before. So I got it for $30 - i guess it might have a leak - but much better thank the tank I took off,
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...15/07/1094.jpg
I also removed the tow ball. The farmer had taken off the military hook (which I have) and put a standard ball on. He had used a fine collection of washers and spacers to make it fit.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...15/07/1095.jpg
The clutch pedal was struck fast in the up position. So I had a good look at that. Once I had disconnected a pipe from the master cylinder the pedal had full movement and the master cylinder was working well. So the problem must be after the master. I am assuming that the slave cylinder is ceased. So I have removed that and ordered a new one. With any luck that will do the trick - if not I guess it is a blockage in the pipes or god forbid a problem with the clutch itself.
The next BIG job is the removal of the bulk head. I would like to get the clutch and gear box working before I take it out.
I have also noticed quite a bit of oil on the chassis below the steering box - i think this is the only place if can have come from. I have seen steering box restoration sets for sale on the net with gaskets, bearings and seals - should I get one of these? I have not taken the box apart - yet.
Clutch - most likely the slave cylinder, or possibly the bell crank shaft siezed.
While you have good access, check the connection between this shaft and the release shaft in the bell housing. This is by a short bit of pipe and two pins. These pins should be checked for distortion or breakage. They must be replaced by the original hardened pins or at worst high tensile bolts. Mild steel bolts will last just long enough for all the floor bolts to rust so they are hard to replace.
John
Thanks John I will take a look at those bits. Hopefully the new slave cylinder will solve the problem
It will probably be the O-ring seal.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chinookflyer
Can be done in situ, you probably just need a gasket and the O-ring.
A couple of pictures here :-
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/other-powe...ml#post2010788
Drain steering box, remove side cover, extract rocker shaft (noting where the roller for the main nut fits). Hook out the O-ring, replace and re-assemble (assuming nothing else is worn/damaged).
There is an adjuster on the side of the steering box that you may have to re-adjust. If the gasket is the same thickness as the original it may not need adjustment.
Colin