Thread: Series 2a restoration

So things are taking a lot longer than expected but I have at last got the bulkhead out.



I am left with with a box full of wiring loom that does fill me with some dread - but I guess that is a story for another day



The bulkhead looks in quite good nick. Some welding and patching to be done. Then clean off the paint and re-paint.



I guess the next step is to get the engine out. I do have an engine crane and a spacer bar to go on it. Could any one provide the following advice

1) should I lift out the engine and gear box together?
2) If I have to remove the gear box and transmission first is this a big bot and how easy will it be for me to screw it up?
3) where do you connect the chains to engine to lift it out

Sorry about the daft questions but remember this time last year I did not know how to use a spanner - actually not that sure I do now!

Thanks

Scott

G'day Scott,

Good to see you doing so well.

I've recently pulled the engine and gearbox from Wombat. Here's the story of that effort.

The restoration of Wombat

I removed the gearbox and transfer case as one unit, leaving the engine in place. The manual and other places talk about a wedge of wood under the rear of the engine but I found that wasn't necessary as the engine was sitting on the crossmember.

For lifting points, I used one of the rear gearbox case bolts to mount a piece of strap with holes in it. At the front, I used one of the gearshift mounting points. The gearbox slid back and lifted out easily.

Although Wombat is a Series 1, it has a 2 1/4 motor. These motors come from the factory with a pair of mounting brackets bolted to the front and rear of the head. I hooked straight onto these. As it happened, my engine mounts were shot so rather than undo them, I just lifted the engine straight up and they parted without complaint.

The whole process is more scary than difficult.

As far as the wiring loom goes, I'll be buying a new one. I've been assured they're easy to fit because they come labelled and with instructions. I suspect that is a bare faced lie because NOTHING involving electrics is straight forward... but maybe I'm being overly cynical

Originally Posted by crackers

G'day Scott,

Good to see you doing so well.

I've recently pulled the engine and gearbox from Wombat. Here's the story of that effort.

The restoration of Wombat

I removed the gearbox and transfer case as one unit, leaving the engine in place. The manual and other places talk about a wedge of wood under the rear of the engine but I found that wasn't necessary as the engine was sitting on the crossmember.

For lifting points, I used one of the rear gearbox case bolts to mount a piece of strap with holes in it. At the front, I used one of the gearshift mounting points. The gearbox slid back and lifted out easily.

Although Wombat is a Series 1, it has a 2 1/4 motor. These motors come from the factory with a pair of mounting brackets bolted to the front and rear of the head. I hooked straight onto these. As it happened, my engine mounts were shot so rather than undo them, I just lifted the engine straight up and they parted without complaint.

The whole process is more scary than difficult.

As far as the wiring loom goes, I'll be buying a new one. I've been assured they're easy to fit because they come labelled and with instructions. I suspect that is a bare faced lie because NOTHING involving electrics is straight forward... but maybe I'm being overly cynical

Many thanks. That is interesting - so you took the gear box and transmission out first. I had not thought about that. I am going to give it a go next weekend. The gearbox and engine simply seperate I guess.

Yes I will get a new loom when I come to rebuilding. I guess it might be a little more difficult being a military S2a

I am also doing a running restoration on a a series 1 in parallel with the 2a. I am having a lot of fun with a water pump at the moment. I will get some pictures up on the S1 forum soon.

I hope wombat is going well

Thanks again

Scott

Gearbox and transfer case, just unbolt the bell housing and move it back enough for the shaft to clear the clutch. It will bind in the clutch plate and may damage it (but you'll fit a new one anyway) unless you keep it pretty straight - check by keeping the gap between the bell housing and flywheel housing even.

As the book says - support the engine on the cross member - if it is sitting on it, either the cross member is bent or the engine mounts sagged; or both.

John

Big day - got the engine out of Wilf!! No big drama which was a surprise.









Main reason for getting the engine out is to get at the chassis so that I can sand blast and protect it before the big rebuild. I will clean the engine up and give it a paint. It does run but I am wondering what work I should do while it is out - or should I take it to a mechanic for an overhaul??

Next job is to get the gear box and transmission out.

A really good weekend - I also manged to change the water pump on Kath my series one.

Looks good.
What bolts did you use/need to mount the engine to the stand?

What work is a good idea while the engine is out depends on its condition. I would be inclined to pull the sump and head and look at the internals as a minimum, and go from there. Could be a minimum of a decoke and new head and sump gasket. But while it is off, have a good look at the manifolds for missing or damaged studs, and look for cracks in the exhaust manifold. Repair as necessary. Have a good look at the core plugs in the block and replace if there is any doubt at all. In fact, I would probably replace the one in the back of the block anyway, as it is almost impossible to replace with the engine in place. Check the water pump for any signs of leaking or roughness in the bearing.

John

Originally Posted by crackers

Looks good.
What bolts did you use/need to mount the engine to the stand?

Just standard ones from Bunnings - did try high tensile but they did not fit. They do seem strong enough????