Starter motor stripped, cleaned, brushes cleaned painted and put back together.
tested and it works!!! hopefully many more years of service for it.
Starter motor stripped, cleaned, brushes cleaned painted and put back together.
tested and it works!!! hopefully many more years of service for it.
Hi guys,
need some help/advice on my gearbox.
oil came out pretty clean etc just a little water no metal filings or anything of sorts. However upon further inspection at the inspection plate there is a first cog which seems to be damaged? when i spin it around its looks like its been chewed out. i am assuming it's not right. There is a little bit of movement and play in the top gears when i turn them again not sure if this is normal?
gearboxes are definitely not my thing, hence is there any good gearbox re conditioners in Vic?
or any suggestions greatly appreciated.
Thanks
I am trying to work out whereabouts the pictures are. I am not certain, but I think we are looking at the back of the output shaft of the main gearbox, viewed through the inspection opening on top of the transfer case.
If that is the case, the spiral gear is the input gear to the transfer case, on the side of it is the dog for operating the PTO, if fitted. To the right of that in the first picture is the "damaged gear". This, in fact, is the special nut that holds the gear on the shaft, together with the special lock washer that makes sure it stays done up. Since a special spanner is required to turn this nut, it would not be unusual for the nut to have been done up and undone at some time in its life with a brass drift or even a cold chisel! And certainly the tabs on the washer would have been positioned with a punch.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Thanks John, hopefully this may clarify
Inspection plate at rear of box as pictures is where the gears are.
John is spot on. That nut has had a right royal butchering with a cold chisel!!! Brass must have been in short supply in his tool kit
Cheers Scott
Yeah, that's an interesting way of doing that nut up. This is the correct tool for the job - HNJ Engineering - Series Land Rover Parts - Land Rover Special Tool 600300 - Land Rover Gearbox Overdrive Mainshaft Nut Tool
Obviously the PO of your vehicle didn't have said tool, or could figure out a decent way of doing it up.
Either something's been replaced in the box, or overdrive has been removed at some stage and that's how they put the nut back on. If it's still tight, and there's nothing else wrong with the box, it won't hurt to leave it IMO, or just take the back cover of the box off, and use the correct tool to install a new nut for peace of mind.
A fellow member over your side of town has a home made version of that tool which would make light work of it. At 80 quid buying the right tool to do the job once is a bit over the top, as you have clearly seen - the PO of your vehicle thought so too.
Oh, this is what the nut is supposed to look like...
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
With careful perseverance you can knock one up (tool that is) from a socket, along with the use of a 100mm angle grinder and a thin cutting disc.
Cheers, Mick.
1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
1971 S2A 88
1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
1972 S3 88 x 2
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
REMLR 88
1969 BSA Bantam B175
Even cheaper was the bit of pipe I used plus an angle grinder. Gripping in so many places and only used rarely, it does not have to be hardened.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Thanks guys really appreciate the insight.
Gearboxes scare the hell out of me, any recommendations on who to take it to
for a check in vic?
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