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Thanks Wolf,
It all seems a bit weird, I'll have another go at it tomorrow.
I may now need to wind the engine around until the timing marks line up on the front pulley etc to guarantee TC on cylinder 1.
Way outside my comfort zone once the timing fairy starts sitting on my shoulder.
Dave
Once you have the dizzy sorted - I haven't had issues with this before - they should rop straight in - make sure your point gap is set spot on first, that will make a big difference to how well it runs. Don't guess, use a feeler gauge. After that, use a multi meter or test light to set the static timing - don't worry about a timing light yet, use that to fine tune it once you have it close. The procedure for static timing should be in the book, but sing out if you need a description of how to do it.
Hi all and thanks for the tips,
Well I sorted it. Got out there this morning and started from scratch again.
Set the tappets, and a dab of Liquid Paper on the front pulley timing notch makes it much easier to see.
Cylinder 1 on TDC, marks line up, but the drive dog on the engine is 90deg out of position.
Sit down and re-read the book a few times. Then I spot it in the Brooklands manual. The drive dog adaptor! Where the hell is it?
Sure enough when I pulled out the dizzy by undoing the 3 bolt adaptor plate it fell off to the side out of view.
All back together and the timing is not too bad now. At least it will accelerate without cutting out, spluttering or backfiring. Not perfect but close.
In the manual it states to set the idle to 500rpm and have the 'vernier adjustment' fully advanced before setting the distributor position. I assume fully advanced means the nut is wound fully in?
Thanks again,
Dave
I'm probably a bit behind where you are now but I'd like to second babicat's comments. Pull the dizzy, set the points using feeler gauges, then reinstall. With only a little bit of care, the dwell angle will virtually always be correct and it's a lot easier to do on the bench than in the car. It has the advantage that you don't change the timing this way.
Note: The timing is affected by the dwell angle so get it right first.
Buy a multi-meter to test it. That same multi-meter will also give you a tacho and that makes setting the mixture very easy (no need to listen for the rev change, just watch the needle, cheating I know but...)
You can time the thing using a timing light and just twisting the dizzy surprisingly easily and accurately, the vernier is just there to dial it in.
Interestingly, none of my three MGBs had a vernier, they were all timed by twisting the dizzy. My Hillman Minx had one though and it made fine tuning the timing out on the road very easy.
This sort of old school timing is very satisfying... once you get the hang of it (it can be frustrating before then).
Thanks guys,
Had a bit more of a fiddle this morning. It has a few issues, a slight miss just off idle being the main one.
I followed the book as best i could. Got the idea as smooth and close to 550rpm as i could, 500 too rough. It tended to idle better with the idle mix screw wound back in 1/2 a turn.
The dwell angle was measured at 56?, only one out, pretty good.
With the vernier fully advanced as per the book and the idle steady and (i think its correct) the vacuum line connected I have settled, for the time being a wee bit more advanced than the 6? 95 octane mark. This seemed to be the best spot for reducing the initial splutter off idle and clean revving under load. Under load its great. I've using high and low range accelerating up the steep hills in my paddocks, goes nicely here.
Any ideas on the off idle splutter and carry on. I have stripped the carry down and cleaned all the jets etc.
thanks
Dave
After putting up with this for years, I had to replace the coil when it failed completely. No more splutter off idle since then!
Not saying it is your coil, but I suggest it could be something a bit dodgy in the ignition, from ignition switch right through to plugs.
John
Could be the coil as John said.
It could also be an intermittent condenser or bad connections to it or the points- only shows up at idle
You might want to consider electronic ignition- makes a huge difference IME.
Phil
Hi all,
After a short break we are back into the car full bore. Stripping all the paint out the interior at the moment before a good prime and respray.
I came across the original ID plate screwed to the firewall. I would really like to clean all the dark green paint off it and get it at least back to 'readable' status.
Any tips on getting it cleaned up with out destroying it?
Thanks all.
Dave
I see why you call it Big Bird, but I like it :D
Well done, it looks really good. Look forward to reading about your (mis)adventures! :BigThumb:
The colour and printing on the plate is anodising, which means that it should not be affected by paint stripper. But the anodised layer is very thin, so use of any abrasive or sharp tool is likely to damage the plate.Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperChad
John