Orkney 90's Series 2A Project

**JDNSW** · 14th January 2016, 07:27 PM

It would be interesting if indeed it does have an all synchro gearbox - as far as I am aware this box was only fitted to home market station wagons.

Regardless, from the pictures it does look like a very good specimen. And I agre - the thing on the steering column is an aftermarket tacho, and the black thing on the firewall is a heater.

John

**Orkney 90** · 14th January 2016, 07:40 PM

The all-synchro gearbox does sound interesting, so that is something I will check out when I get the car. I am guessing that the original could have been replaced sometime in the life of the car.

Once I get my hands on it, I will take some more detailed photos.

**Homestar** · 14th January 2016, 08:47 PM

The pic taken of the chassis number - the opposite side spring hanger doesn't look right - not sure what's going on there. All in all, looks like a nice original unit.

. Good to see it has the original 6 in it, and hasn't been changed for a Holden engine. Don't let anyone talk you into replacing it - while they probably aren't as bulletproof as the Land Rover 4 cylinder, with good maintenance they are a reliable enough engine and are super smooth, free reving and easy to coax a few more ponies out of.

**67hardtop** · 14th January 2016, 09:15 PM

Originally Posted by Thunderbolt

Looks like freewheeling hubs from the pic
Cheers

They are warn hubs.

They are argueably the toughest free wheeling hubs available at the time for series and other makes. Really strong.

Cheers Rod

Sent from my GT-I9507 using AULRO mobile app

**JDNSW** · 15th January 2016, 05:44 AM

Yes, Warn Hubs, same as the ones I have. Having run tests with them in and out, I see no real advantage in them, and they bring the risk of lubrication failure on the top swivel bearing if not regularly engaged (or simply engage four wheel drive while stopped and leave it in for a few kilometres once a week). But no need to remove them - just leave them locked.

As bacicat points out, the RH rear spring seems to have a problem. The shackle is in a strange position. This could be either a broken main leaf allowing the axle to move back or the same effect could probably happen by badly worn bushes, or possibly the front bolt completely missing. Unlikely but possible is chassis damage or even an incorrect spring fitted.

John

**Orkney 90** · 15th January 2016, 08:12 AM

Thank you John. I will have to do some reading up on the correct way to use the Warn Hubs. I am presuming that if I leave them "locked" then they are engaged in full-time four-wheel-drive?

As for the spring hanger, I have already taken some of those codeine tablets...

Kidding. I think I need something stronger...

I guess I will find out soon enough.

**JayBee75** · 15th January 2016, 08:27 AM

Originally Posted by Orkney 90

Hi Dark61, not quite sure what that thing is. I only get the car next Wednesday. I was kind of hoping that someone on here may know... Also that strange looking round black thing attached to the steering column?

And is there anything else obviously not original Land Rover just by those few photos?

Yes that is a Smiths square panel heater, opposed to the round ones. I have one in the garage but they only fit if you don't have a hand throttle.

by the way, great find, great base to start from. Enjoy.

Cheers
jonathan

**JDNSW** · 15th January 2016, 09:47 AM

Originally Posted by Orkney 90

Thank you John. I will have to do some reading up on the correct way to use the Warn Hubs. I am presuming that if I leave them "locked" then they are engaged in full-time four-wheel-drive?
.....

Not exactly. As designed, with fixed front drive flanges, the front half axles, differential and propeller shaft are turned by the wheels motion, but there is no connection between the output shaft of the transfer case and the propeller shaft. When you push the yellow knob down, or engage low range, a dog clutch connects the propeller shaft to the transfer case output shaft.

In theory, not turning these parts by disconnecting the from the wheels when you don't want four wheel drive should reduce wear and improve performance and fuel economy.

In practice, the saving is so small as to be imperceptible - the reality is that spinning these parts with no load takes very little power - the major loss is probably aerodynamic from the prop shaft, and at the speeds typical of Series Landrovers, this is negligible.

But there are drawbacks to not having them spinning. The major one is that the lubrication to the upper swivel bush depends on the U-joint throwing oil about, and long periods without this will result in excessive wear on these parts.

In addition, I have seen reports of excessive wear on the slip joint in the prop shaft, and condensation in the diff resulting in rusting of the half of the mechanism that is always above oil level, including the bearings.

John

**Orkney 90** · 15th January 2016, 04:27 PM

Originally Posted by bacicat

The pic taken of the chassis number - the opposite side spring hanger doesn't look right - not sure what's going on there. All in all, looks like a nice original unit.

. Good to see it has the original 6 in it, and hasn't been changed for a Holden engine. Don't let anyone talk you into replacing it - while they probably aren't as bulletproof as the Land Rover 4 cylinder, with good maintenance they are a reliable enough engine and are super smooth, free reving and easy to coax a few more ponies out of.

There seems to be very little in the way of literature regarding the six cylinder engine compared to the fours. The common theme seems to be that spare parts are relatively hard to find. I hope that this will not be the case as I do indeed intend to keep it as original as possible, including the six.

**Homestar** · 15th January 2016, 06:09 PM

Originally Posted by Orkney 90

There seems to be very little in the way of literature regarding the six cylinder engine compared to the fours. The common theme seems to be that spare parts are relatively hard to find. I hope that this will not be the case as I do indeed intend to keep it as original as possible, including the six.

I like that you want to keep it original, don't listen to the knockers that will tell you about their mates mate who had issues with one, once you've driven it, you'll realise it's a sweet, smooth engine worth hanging onto, and it's rarity is a nice draw card too IMO.

Parts are available if you know where to look, but don't expect your local Repco store to have them.

. I'm just hunting up some oversize pistons, rings and bearings at the moment as I'm doing a full rebuild on my Sons. Things like water pumps are scarce, but can still be bought new. If you have the room, finding a complete spare engine as parts wouldn't be a bad idea. They are uncommon, not rare, but I've picked up 2 at good prices. I paid $100 for 1 with a brand new clutch in it, but engine condition unknown - but was told it had run, and recently I paid $450 for a very good known runner with brand new water pump and a few other parts. This is the engine I've just stripped to rebuild, and it's in very good condition all in all. The resto we are doing will be a daily driver, so everything is getting replaced or rebuilt on this car.

This is the thread on the resto - My Series 3 Project

And here's some good reading on the engine - 2.6 Engine Improvements

One of the forum members on here - Cookey - is the oracle on these engines and he has been working on them since these engines were being used by the Army, which is where he learnt all about them. He is also very good at coaxing extra ponies out of them too and if you have some dollars spare for a set of his extractors, these would be the biggest bolt on improvement you can make to it - gaining nearly 30% power increase by doing so (confirmed on a dyno - see the engine improvement thread)

Thread: Orkney 90's Series 2A Project

Thread Tools

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions